<h2><SPAN name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</SPAN><br/> <small>MR. INCOUL DINES IN SPAIN.</small></h2>
<p class="cap">On the morrow Mr. Blydenburg consulted
his guide-books. The descriptions of
Fuenterrabia were vague but alluring. The
streets, he learned, were narrow; the roofs
met; the houses were black with age; the
doors were heavy with armorials; the windows
barred—in short, a mediæval burg that
slept on a blue gulf and let Time limp by
unmarked. Among the inhabitants were
some, he found, who accommodated travelers.
The inns, it is true, were unstarred, but the
names were so rich in suggestion that the
neglect was not noticed. Mr. Blydenburg
had never passed a night in Spain, and he
felt that he would like to do so. This desire
he succeeded in awakening in Mr. Incoul,
and together they agreed to take an afternoon
train, explore the town, pass the evening
at the Casino and return to Biarritz the
next morning. The programme thus arranged
was put into immediate execution;<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</SPAN></span>
two days after the bull fight they were again
on their way to the frontier, and, as the train
passed out of the station on its southern
journey, Maida and Lenox Leigh were preparing
for a stroll on the sands.</p>
<p>There is at Biarritz a division of the shore
which, starting from the ruins of a corsair’s
castle, extends on to Saint-Jean-de-Luz. It
is known as the Côte des Basques. On one
side are the cliffs, on the other the sea, and
between the two is a broad avenue which almost
disappears when the tide is high. The
sand is fine as face powder, <i>nuance</i> Rachel,
packed hard. From the cliffs the view is
delicious: in the distance are the mountains
curving and melting in the haze; below, the
ocean, spangled at the edges, is of a milky
blue. Seen from the shore, the sea has the
color of absinthe, an opalescent green, entangled
and fringed with films of white; here
the mountains escape in the perspective, and
as the sun sinks the cliffs glitter. At times
the sky is flecked with little clouds that
dwindle and fade into spirals of pink; at
others great masses rise sheer against the
horizon, as might the bastions of Titan
homes; and again are gigantic cathedrals,
their spires lost in azure, their turrets swooning
in excesses of vermilion grace. The only<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</SPAN></span>
sound is from the waves, but few come to
listen. The Côte des Basques is not fashionable
with the summer colony; it is merely
beautiful and solitary.</p>
<p>It was on the downs that Maida and Lenox
first chose to walk, but after a while a sloping
descent invited them to the shore below.
Soon they rounded a projecting cliff, and
Biarritz was hidden from them. The background
was chalk festooned with green;
afar were the purple outlines of the Pyrenees,
and before them the ocean murmured its
temptations of couch and of tomb.</p>
<p>They had been talking earnestly with the
egotism of people to whom everything save
self is landscape. The encircling beauty in
which they walked had not left them unimpressed,
yet the influence had been remote
and undiscerned; the effect had been that of
accessories. But now they were silent, for
the wonder of the scene was upon them.</p>
<p>Presently Maida, finding a stone conveniently
placed, sat down on the sand and used
the stone for a back. Lenox threw himself
at her feet. From the downs above there
came now and then the slumberous tinkle
of a bell, but so faintly that it fused with the
rustle of the waves; no one heard it save a
little girl who was tending cattle and who<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</SPAN></span>
knew by the tinkle where each of her charges
browsed. She was a ragged child, barefooted
and not very wise; she was afraid of strangers
with the vague fear that children have. And
at times during the summer, when tourists
crossed the downs where her cattle were, she
would hide till they had passed.</p>
<p>On this afternoon she had been occupying
herself with blades of grass, which she threw
in the air and watched float down to the
shore below, but at last she had wearied of
this amusement and was about to turn and
bully the cows in the shrill little voice which
was hers, when Maida and her companion
appeared on the scene. The child felt almost
secure; nothing but a bird could reach her
from the shore and of birds she had no fear,
and so, being curious and not very much
afraid, she watched the couple with timid, inquisitive
eyes.</p>
<p>For a long time she watched and for a long
time they remained motionless in the positions
which they had first chosen. At times
the sound of their voices reached her. She
wished she were a little nearer that she might
hear what they said. She had never seen
people sit on the beach before, though she
had heard that people sometimes did so, all
night, too, and that they were called smugglers.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</SPAN></span>
But somehow the people beneath her
did not seem to belong to that category. For a
moment she thought that they might be guarding
the coast, and at that thought an inherent
instinctive fear of officials beat in her small
breast. She had indeed heard of female
smugglers; there was her own aunt, for instance;
but no, she had never heard of a
coast-guard in woman’s clothes. That idea
had to be dismissed, and so she wondered and
watched until she forgot all about them, and
turned her attention to a white sail in the open.</p>
<p>The white sail fainted in sheets of cobalt.
The sun which had neared the horizon was
dying in throes of crimson and gamboge. It
was time she knew to drive the cattle home.
She stood up and brushed her hair aside, and
as she did so, her eyes fell again on the
couple below. The man had moved; he was
not lying as he had been with his back to the
bluff; he was kneeling by his companion,
her head was on his shoulder, her arms were
about his neck, and his mouth was close to
hers. The little maid smiled knowingly; she
had seen others in much the same attitude;
the mystery was dissolved; they were neither
guards nor smugglers—they were lovers;
and she ran on at once through the bramble
and called shrilly to the cows.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>The excursionists, meanwhile, had reached
Hendaye and had been ferried across the
stream that flows between it and Fuenterrabia.
At the landing they were met by a
gentleman in green and red who muttered
some inquiry. The boatman undid the
straps of the valise which they bore, and this
rite accomplished, the gentleman in green
and red looked idly in them and turned as
idly away. The boatman shouldered the
valises again, and started for the inn.</p>
<p>Mr. Incoul and his friend were both men
to whom the visible world exists and they followed
with lingering surprise. They ascended
a sudden slope, bordered on one side
by a high white wall in which lizards played,
and which they assumed was the wall of
some monastery, but which they learned
from the boatman concealed a gambling-house,
and soon entered a small grass-grown
plaza. To the right was a church, immense,
austere; to the left were some mildewed
dwellings; from an upper window a man
with a crimson turban looked down with indifferent
eyes and abruptly a bird sang.</p>
<p>From the plaza they entered the main
street and soon were at the inn. Mr. Incoul
and Blydenburg were both men to
whom the visible world exists, but they were<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</SPAN></span>
also men to whom the material world has
much significance. In the hall of the inn
a chicken and two turkeys clucked with fearless
composure. The public room was small,
close and full of insects. At a rickety table
an old man, puffy and scornful, was quarreling
with himself on the subject of a <i>peseta</i>
which he held in his hand. The inn-keeper,
a frowsy female, emerged from some remoter
den, eyed them with unmollifiable
suspicion and disappeared.</p>
<p>“We can’t stop here,” said Blydenburg
with the air of a man denying the feasibility
of a trip to the moon.</p>
<p>On inquiry they learned that the town contained
nothing better. At the Casino there
were roulette tables, but no beds. Travelers
usually stopped at Hendaye or at Irun.</p>
<p>“Then we will go back to Biarritz.”</p>
<p>They sent their valises on again to the
landing place and then set out in search of
Objects of Interest. The palace of Charlemagne
scowled at them in a tottering, impotent
way. When they attempted to enter
the church, a chill caught them neck and
crop and forced them back. For some time
they wandered about in an aimless, unguided
fashion, yet whatever direction they chose
that direction fed them firmly back to the<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</SPAN></span>
landing place. At last they entered the
Casino.</p>
<p>The grounds were charming, a trifle unkempt
perhaps, the walks were not free from
weeds, but the air was as heavy with the odor
of flowers as a perfumery shop in Bond street.
In one alley, in a bower of trees, was a row of
tables; the covers were white and the glassware
unexceptionable.</p>
<p>“We could dine here,” Blydenburg said in
a self-examining way. A pretty girl of the
manola type, dressed like a soubrette in a
vaudeville, approached and decorated his
lapel with a tube-rose. “We certainly can
dine here,” he repeated.</p>
<p>The girl seemed to divine the meaning of his
words. “<i>Ciertamente, Caballero</i>,” she lisped.</p>
<p>Mr. Blydenburg had never been called <i>Caballero</i>
before, and he liked it. “What do
you say, Incoul?” he asked.</p>
<p>“I am willing, order it now if you care to.”</p>
<p>But the ordering was not easy. Mr. Blydenburg
had never studied pantomime, and
his gestures were more indicative of a patient
describing a toothache to a dentist than of an
American citizen ordering an evening meal.
“<i>Kayry-Oostay</i>,” he repeated, and then from
some abyss of memory he called to his aid detached
phrases in German.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>The girl laughed blithely. Her mouth
was like a pomegranate cut in twain. She
took a thin book bound in morocco from
the table and handed it to the unhappy gentleman.
It was, he found, a list of dishes and
of wines. In his excitement, he pointed one
after another to three different soups, and
then waving the book at the girl as who
should say, “I leave the rest to you,” he
dared Mr. Incoul to go into the Casino and
break the bank for an appetizer.</p>
<p>The Casino, a low building of leprous
white, stood in the centre of the garden. At
the door, a lackey, in frayed, ill-fitting livery,
took their sticks and gave them numbered
checks in exchange. The gambling-room
was on the floor above, and occupied the entire
length of the house. There, about a
roulette table, a dozen men were seated playing
in a cheap and vicious way for small
stakes. They looked exactly what they were,
and nothing worse can be said of them. “A
den of thieves in a miniature paradise,”
thought Mr. Blydenburg, and his fancy was
so pleasured with the phrase that he determined
to write a letter to the <i>Evening Post</i>,
in which, with that for title, he would give a
description of Fuenterrabia. He found a
seat and began to play. Mr. Incoul looked<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</SPAN></span>
on for a moment and then sought the reading-room.
When he returned Blydenburg
had a heap of counters before him.</p>
<p>“I have won all that!” he exclaimed exultingly.
He looked at his watch, it was
after seven. He cashed the counters and together
they went down again to the garden.</p>
<p>The dinner was ready. They had one soup,
not three, and other dishes of which no particular
mention is necessary. But therewith was
a bottle of Val de Peñas, a wine so delicious
that a temperance lecturer suffering from
hydrophobia would have drunk of it. The
manola with the pomegranate mouth fluttered
near them, and toward the close of the meal
Mr. Blydenburg chucked her under the chin.
“Nice girl that,” he announced complacently.</p>
<p>“I dare say,” his friend answered, “but
I have never been able to take an interest in
women of that class.”</p>
<p>Blydenburg was flushed with winnings and
wine. He did not notice the snub and proceeded
to relate an after-dinner story of that
kind in which men of a certain age are said
to luxuriate. Mr. Incoul listened negligently.</p>
<p>“God knows,” he said at last, “I am not
a Puritan, but I like refinement, and refinement
and immorality are incompatible.”</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>“Fiddlesticks! Look at London, look at
Paris, New York even; there are women
whom you and I both know, women in the
very best society, of whom all manner of
things are said and known. You may call
them immoral if you want to, but you cannot
say that they are not refined.”</p>
<p>“I say this, were I related in any way, were
I the brother, father, the husband of such a
woman, I would wring her neck. I believe in
purity in women, and I believe also in purity
in men.”</p>
<p>“Yes, it’s a good thing to believe in, but
it’s hard to find.”</p>
<p>Mr. Incoul had spoken more vehemently
than was his wont, and to this remark he
made no answer. His eyes were green, not
the green of the cat but the green of a tiger,
and as he sat with fingers clinched, and a
cheerless smile on his thin lips, he looked a
modern hunter of the Holy Grail.</p>
<p>The night train leaves Hendaye a trifle
after ten, and soon a <i>sereno</i> was heard calling
the hour, and declaring that all was well. It
was time to be going, they knew, and without
further delay they had themselves ferried
again across the stream. The return journey
was unmarked by adventure or incident. Mr.
Blydenburg fell into a doze, and after dreaming<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</SPAN></span>
of the pomegranate mouth awoke at Biarritz,
annoyed that he had not thought to
address the manola in Basque. At the station
they found a carriage, and, as Blydenburg
entered it, he made with himself a little
consolatory pact that some day he would go
back to Fuenterrabia alone.</p>
<p>The station at Biarritz is several miles from
the town, and as the horses were slow it was
almost twelve o’clock before the Continental
was reached. Blydenburg alighted there and
Mr. Incoul drove on alone to the villa. As he
approached it he saw that his wife’s rooms
were illuminated. For the moment he
thought she might be waiting for him, but at
once he knew that was impossible, for on
leaving he had said he would pass the night
in Spain.</p>
<p>The carriage drew up before the main
entrance. He felt for small money to pay the
driver, but found nothing smaller than a louis.
The driver, after a protracted fumbling, declared
that in the matter of change he was
not a bit better of. Where is the cabman
who was ever supplied? Rather than waste
words Mr. Incoul gave him the louis and the
man drove off, delighted to find that the old
trick was still in working order.</p>
<p>Mr. Incoul looked up again at his wife’s<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</SPAN></span>
window, but during his parley with the driver
the lights had been extinguished. He entered
the gate and opened the door with a
key. The hall was dark; he found a match
and lit it. On the stair was Lenox Leigh.
The match flickered and went out, but
through the open door the moon poured in.</p>
<p>The young man rubbed his hat as though
uncertain what to do or say. At last he
reached the door, “I am at the Grand, you
know,” he hazarded.</p>
<p>“Yes, I know,” Mr. Incoul answered, “and
I hope you are comfortable.”</p>
<p>Leigh passed out. Mr. Incoul closed and
bolted the door behind him. For a moment
he stood very still. Then turning, he
ascended the stair.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</SPAN></span></p>
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