<h2><SPAN name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</SPAN><br/> <small>BIARRITZ</small></h2>
<p class="cap">After a frühstück of coffee and honey,
to which the inn-keeper, out of compliment
to the nationality of his guest, had
added an ear of green corn—a combination,
be it said, that no one but a German could
have imagined—Mr. Incoul went in search
of his friend.</p>
<p>He had questioned Karl, and the courier
had spoken of Ostend with such enthusiasm
that his employer suspected him of some
personal interest in the place and struck it at
once from the list of possible resorts which
he had been devising. On the subject of
other <i>bains de mer</i> the man was less communicative.
There was, he said, nothing
attractive about Travemunde, except the
name; Scheveningen was apt to be chilly;
Trouville he rather favored, but to his thinking
Ostend was preferable.</p>
<p>When the courier had gone Mr. Incoul
ran his eye down a mental map of the coast<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</SPAN></span>
of France, and just as it reached the Spanish
frontier he remembered that some one in his
hearing had recently sounded the attractions
of Biarritz. On that seaboard he ultimately
decided, and it was with the idea that Blydenburg
might go further and fare worse that he
sought his friend and suggested the advantages
of a trip to the Basque country.</p>
<p>Mr. Blydenburg had few objections to
make. He had taken very kindly to the
consumption of beer, but beer had not agreed
with him, and he admitted, did he stay in
Baden, that, in spite of the ill effects, he
would still be unable to resist the allurements
of that insidious beverage. “Act like
a man, then,” said Mr. Incoul, encouragingly;
“act like a man and flee from it.”</p>
<p>There was no gainsaying the value of this
advice, but between its adoption and a journey
to Biarritz the margin was wide. “It is
true,” he said, reflectively, “I could study
the language at the fountain-head.” (Mr.
Blydenburg, it may be explained, was a gentleman
who plumed himself on his familiarity
with recondite tongues, but one whose knowledge
of the languages that are current in
polite society was such as is gleaned from
the appendices of guide-books.)</p>
<p>Mr. Incoul nodded approvingly, “Certainly<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</SPAN></span>
there would be no difficulty about
that.”</p>
<p>Blydenburg looked at him musingly for a
moment and nodded, too. “The name Biarritz,”
he said, “comes, I am inclined to believe,
from bi haritz—two oaks. Minucius
thinks that it comes from bi harri—two
rocks; but I have detected Minucius in certain
errors which has made me wary of
accepting his opinion. For instance, he
claims that the Basques are descendants of
the Phœnicians. Nothing could be more
preposterous. They are purely Iberian, and
probably the most ancient race in Europe.
Why, you would be surprised”—</p>
<p>Mr. Incoul interrupted him cruelly—“I
often am,” he said; “now tell me, will you be
ready this afternoon?”</p>
<p>“The laundress has just taken my things.”</p>
<p>“Send after them, then. I make no doubt
that there you can find another on the Bay of
Biscay.”</p>
<p>“I wonder what Biscay comes from? bi
scai, two currents, perhaps. Yes, of course,
I will be ready.” And as his friend moved
away, he pursed his lips abstractedly and
made a note of the derivation.</p>
<p>A courier aiding, the journey from Baden
to Biarritz can be accomplished without loss<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</SPAN></span>
of life or reason. It partakes something of
the character of a zigzag, the connections
are seldom convenient, the wayside inns are
not of the best, but if people go abroad to
be uncomfortable, what more can the heart
desire? The Incoul-Blydenburg party, impeded
by Karl, a body-servant, and two
maids, received their allotted share of discomfort
with the very best grace in the world.
They reached Bayonne after five days, not, it
is true, of consecutive motion, but of such
consecutive heat that they were glad to descend
at the station of that excitable little city
and in the fresh night air drive in open carriages
over the few kilometres that remained
to be traversed.</p>
<p>It was many hours before the journey was
sufficiently a part of the past to enable the
travelers to look about them, but on the
evening succeeding their arrival, after a dinner
on the verandah of the Continental, they
sat with much contentment of spirit enjoying
the intermittent showers of summer stars and
the boom and rustle of the waves. Baden
was unregretted. To the left, high above, on
the summit of a projecting eminence, the
white and illuminated Casino glittered like
an ærian palace. To the right was the gardened
quadrangle of the former Empress of<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</SPAN></span>
the French, in the air was the scent of seaweed
and before them the Infinite.</p>
<p>“It’s quite good enough for me,” Blydenburg
confided to his companions, and the
confidence in its inelegant terseness conveyed
the sentiments of them all.</p>
<p>A week passed without bringing with it any
incident worthy of record. In the mornings
they met at the Moorish Pavilion which stands
on the shore and there lounged or bathed.
Maida’s beauty necessarily attracted much
attention, and when she issued in a floating
wrapper from the sedan-chair in which she
allowed herself to be carried from the Pavilion
to the sea, a number of amateurs who stood
each day just out of reach of the waves, expressed
their admiration in winning gutturals.</p>
<p>She was, assuredly, very beautiful, particularly
so in comparison with the powdered
sallowness of the ladies from Spain, and
when, with a breezy gesture of her own, she
tossed her wrap to the bather and with sandaled
feet and a white and clinging costume
of serge she stepped to the water there was
one on-looker who bethought him of a nymph
of the Ægean Sea. She was a good swimmer,
as the American girl often is, and she
breasted and dived through the wonderful
waves with an intrepidity such as the accompanying<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</SPAN></span>
<i>baigneur</i> had been rarely called upon
to restrain.</p>
<p>From the shade of beach chairs, large and
covered like wicker tents, her husband and
the Blydenburgs would watch her prowess,
and when, after a final ride on the crest of
some great billow, she would be tossed breathless
and deliciously disheveled into the
steadying arms of the bather, the amateurs
were almost tempted to applaud.</p>
<p>In the afternoons there were drives and
excursions. One day to Bayonne along the
white, hard road that skirts the Chambre
d’Amour, through the peace and quiet of
Aiglet and on through kilometres of pines to
the Adour, a river so beautiful in itself that
all the ingenuity of man has been unable to
make it wholly hideous, and thence by its
banks to the outlying gardens of the city.</p>
<p>On other days they would loiter on the
cliffs that overhang the Côte des Basques, or
push on to Bidart, a chromatic village where
the inhabitants are so silent that one might
fancy them enchanted by the mellow marvels
of their afternoons.</p>
<p>But of all other places Maida preferred
Saint Jean-de-Luz. It lies near the frontier
on a bay of the tenderest blue, and for background
it has the hazy amethyst of the neighborly<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</SPAN></span>
Pyrenees. The houses are rainbows of
blended colors; from the open door-ways the
passer, now and then, catches a whiff of
rancid oil, the smell of victuals cooked in
fat, from a mouldering square a cathedral
casts an unexpected chill, but otherwise the
town is charming, warm and very bright. On
the shore stands an inn and next to it a toy
casino.</p>
<p>To this exotic resort the little party drove
one afternoon. It had been originally arranged
to pass the day there, but on the day
for which the excursion was planned, a <i>Course
Landaise</i> was announced at Biarritz, and it
was then decided that they should first view
the <i>course</i> and dine afterwards at Saint Jean.
At first both Maida and Miss Blydenburg
refused to attend the performance and it was
not until they were assured that it was a bull-fight
for ladies in which there was no shedding
of blood that they consented to be
present. The spectacle which they then witnessed
was voted most agreeable. The bulls,
which turned out to be heifers, very lithe and
excitable, were housed in boxed stalls, which
bore their respective names: Isabel, Rosa,
Paquita, Adelaide, Carlota and Sofia. The
ring itself was an improvised arrangement
constructed in a great racquet court. The<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</SPAN></span>
spectators, according to their means, found
seats on either side, the poorer in the sun
and the more wealthy in the shaded Tribune
d’Honneur. After a premonitory blare from
municipal brass the quadrille entered the
arena. They were a good-looking set of
men, more plainly dressed than their bloodier
brothers of Spain, and very agile. Two of
them carrying long poles stationed themselves
at the sides, one, armed with a barb
laid himself down a few feet from Isabel’s
door, and a fourth threw his soft hat in the
middle of the ring, put his feet in it and
stood expectant. In a moment a latch was
drawn, Isabel leaped from her stall, bounded
over the prostrate form that pricked her on
her way and made a straight rush for the
motionless figure in the centre of the ring.
When she reached him he was in the air and
over her with his feet still in the hat. Isabel
was bewildered, instead of goring a man she
had run her horns into empty space and in
her annoyance she turned viciously at one of
the pole-bearing gentlemen who vaulted over
her as easily as were he crossing a gutter, but
in vaulting the pole slipped from him, and
amid the applause of the audience Isabel
chased him across the ring to a high fence
opposite, and to which he rose like a bird<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</SPAN></span>
with Isabel’s horns on his heels. There was
more of this amusement, and then Isabel, a
trifle tired, was lured back to her box; Rosa
was loosed and the performance repeated.</p>
<p>The escapes seemed so hairbreadth that
Mr. Blydenburg announced his intention of
witnessing a genuine bull fight, and on the
way to Saint Jean urged his companions to
accompany him over the border and view the
real article. “There is one announced for
next Sunday,” he said, “at San Sebastian, a
stone’s throw from here.” The appetite of
all had been whetted, and during the rest of
the drive, Mr. Blydenburg discoursed on the
subject with such learning and enthusiasm
that even his daughter consented to forget
her Sabbath principles and make one of the
projected party.</p>
<p>When the meal was done, they went into
the toy Casino. There was a band playing at
one end of the hall, the which was so narrow
that the director had been obliged to select
thin musicians, and beyond was a paperless
reading-room, a vague café, a dwarf theatre,
and a salle-de-jeu in white and gamboge. In
the latter division, where the high life of Saint
Jean had assembled, stood a table that resembled
a roulette. In its centre were miniature
revolving bulls, which immediately<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</SPAN></span>
attracted Mr. Blydenburg’s attention, and on
the green baize were painted the names of
cities.</p>
<p>“Banderilla! Ruego! Sevilla!” the croupier
called, as the party entered. In one hand
he held a rake, with which he possessed himself
of the stakes of those who had lost, and
with the other hand he tossed out coin to
those who had won. The machinery was
again set in motion, and when the impulse
had ceased to act he called out anew, “Espada!
Nero! Madrid!”</p>
<p>Mr. Blydenburg was thoroughly interested.
In the residue of twenty-five French lessons,
which he had learned in his boyhood from a
German, he made bold to demand information.</p>
<p>“It’s the neatest game in the world,” the
croupier replied; “six for one on the cities,
even on the colors, even on banderilla or espada,
and twenty for one on Frascuelo.”
And, as he gave the latter information, he
pointed to a little figure armed with a sword,
which was supposed to represent that famous
matador. “The minimum,” he added, obligingly,
“is fifty centimes; the maximum, forty
sous.”</p>
<p>“I’ll go Frascuelo,” said Blydenburg, and
suiting the action to the word, he placed a<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</SPAN></span>
coin on the table. Maida, meanwhile, had
put money on everything—cities, colors,
banderilla, espada, and Frascuelo as well.
To the surprise of every one, but most to
that of the croupier, Frascuelo won. Maida
saw twenty francs swept from her and forty
returned. Blydenburg, who had played a
closer game, received forty also, but he lost
nothing, and he beamed as joyously as had
the University of Copenhagen crowned an
essay of his own manufacture.</p>
<p>It was by means of these mild amusements
that the first week of their sojourn was
helped away. Through the kindness of an
international acquaintance, Mr. Incoul had
been made welcome at the Cercle de Biarritz,
and in that charming summer club, where
there is much high play and perfect informality,
he had become acquainted with a
Spaniard, the Marquis of Zunzarraga.</p>
<p>One day when the latter gentleman had
wearied of the columns of the <i>Epoca</i> and Mr.
Incoul, and sought in vain for some refreshment
from <i>Galignani</i>, they drew their chairs
together and exchanged cigarettes.</p>
<p>In answer to the question which is addressed
to every new-comer, Mr. Incoul expressed
himself pleased with the country,
adding that were not hotel life always distasteful<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</SPAN></span>
he would be glad to remain on
indefinitely.</p>
<p>“You might take a villa,” the marquis
suggested. To this Mr. Incoul made no reply.
The nobleman fluttered his fingers a
moment and then said, “take mine, you can
have it, servants and all.”</p>
<p>The Villa Zunzarraga was near the hotel
and its airy architecture had already attracted
Mr. Incoul’s eye. It was a modern
improvement on a feudal château, there were
turreted wings in which the machicoulis
were replaced by astragals and a broad and
double stairway of marble led up to the main
entrance.</p>
<p>“If you have nothing better to do to-day,”
the marquis continued, “go in and take a
look at it. I have never rented it before, but
this summer the marquesa is with the queen,
my mistress, and I would be glad to have it
off my hands.”</p>
<p>After consulting Maida in regard to her
wishes, Mr. Incoul determined to act on the
suggestion, and that afternoon they went together
to view the villa. In its appointments
there was little fault to be found. There was
no vestibule, unless, indeed, the entrance hall,
which was large enough to accommodate a
small cotillon, could be so considered; on the<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</SPAN></span>
right were reception-rooms, to the left a dining-room,
all facing the sea, while at the rear,
overlooking a quiet garden that seemed to
extend indefinitely and lose itself in the lilac
fringes of the tamaris, was a library. On the
floor above were bed and sitting rooms. In
one wing were the offices, kitchen and servants’
quarters, in another was the coach-house
and stables.</p>
<p>Under the guidance of the host, Mr. Incoul
went to explore the place, while Maida remained
in the library. It was a satisfactory
room, lined on three sides with low, well-filled
book-cases, the windows were doors and extended
nearly to the ceiling, but the light fell
through pink awnings under which was a
verandah, with steps that led to the garden
below. From the walls hung selections of
Goya’s Proverbios and Tauromaquia, a series
of nightmares in black and white.
Among them was a picture of a lake of blood
haunted by evil spirits; a vertiginous flight
of phantoms more horrible than any Doré
ever saw; a reunion of sorcerers with cats
for steeds; women tearing teeth from the
mouths of the gibbeted; a confusion of demons
and incubes; a disordered dance of delirious
manolas; caricatures that held the
soul of Hoffmann; the disembowelment of<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</SPAN></span>
fantastic chulos; horses tossed by bulls with
chimerical horns; but best of all, a skeleton
leaning with a leer from the tomb and scrawling
on it the significant legend, <i>Nada</i>, nothing.</p>
<p>In one corner, on a pedestal, there glittered
a Buddha, the legs crossed and a smile
of indolent apathy on its imbecile features.
Behind it was a giant crucifix with arms outstretched
like the wings of woe.</p>
<p>Maida wandered from book-case to book-case,
examining the contents with incurious
eye. The titles were strange to her and new.
In one division were the works of Archilaus,
Albert le Grand, Raymond Lulle, Armand de
Villenova, Nostradamus, and Paracelsus, the
masters of occult science. Another was given
up to Spanish literature. There were the
poems of Berceo, the romancero of the church;
the codex of Alphonso X., the Justinian of
mediæval Spain; El Tesoro, a work on alchemy
by the same royal hand and the Conquista
d’ultramar. There was the Libro de
consejos, by Sanchez IV.; and Bicerro, the
armorial of the nobility, by his son, Alphonso
XI. Therewith was a collection of verse of
the troubadours, the songs of Aimeric de
Bellinsi, Foulque de Lunel, Carbonel, Nat
de Tours, and Riquier, the last of the knight-errants.
Then came the poems of Juan de<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</SPAN></span>
Mena, the Dante of Castille; the Rabelaisian
relaxations of the Archbishop of Hita; the
cancionero of Ausias March, that of Baena,
of Stuñiga, and that of Ixar.</p>
<p>Another book-case was filled with the
French poets, from Villon to Soulary. The
editions were delicious, a pleasure to hold,
and many of them bore the imprint of Lemerre.
Among them was the Fleurs du Mal,
an unexpurgated copy, and by it were the
poems of Baudelaire’s decadent descendants,
Paul Verlaine and Mallarmé.</p>
<p>There were other book-cases, and of these
there was one of which the door was locked.
In it were Justine and Juliette, by the Marquis
de Sade; the works of Piron; the works
of Beroalde de Verville; a copy of Mercius;
a copy of Thérèse Philosophe; the De Arcanis
Amoris; Mirabeau’s Rideau levé; Gamaini,
by Alfred de Musset and George
Sand; Boccaccio; the Heptameron; Paphian
Days; Crébillon’s Sopha; the Erotika Biblion;
the Satyricon of Petronius; an illustrated
catalogue of the Naples Museum; Voltaire’s
Pucelle; a work or two of Diderot’s; Maiseroy’s
Deux Amies; the Clouds; the Curée;
everything, in fact, from Aristophanes to Zola.</p>
<p>The collection was meaningless to Maida,
and she turned aside and went out on the<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</SPAN></span>
verandah. Below, on the gravel walk, was a
cat with a tail like a banner, and a neck
furred like a ruff. Maida crumpled a bit of
paper and threw it down. The cat jumped
at it at once, toyed with it for a moment, and
then, sliding backwards with a crab-like movement,
its back arched, and its ears drawn
down, it caught a glimpse of Maida’s unfamiliar
figure, and fled to the bushes with a shriek
of feigned terror. A servant passed, and ignorant
of Maida’s presence, apostrophized the
retreating feline as a loafer and a liar.</p>
<p>A moment later Mr. Incoul and the marquis
reappeared.</p>
<p>“I have been admiring your Angora,”
Maida said, “but I fear I startled it.”</p>
<p>The marquis rubbed his hands together
thoughtfully. “It is a wonderful animal,” he
answered, “but it is not an Angora, it is a
Thibetian cat, and though it does not talk, at
least it converses. It is so odd in its ways
that I called it Mistigris, as one might a
familiar spirit, but my children prefer Ti-Mi;
they think it more Thibetian, I fancy.” He
coughed slightly and looking at the points of
his fingers, he added, “I will leave it with you
of course.”</p>
<p>And then Maida understood that the matter
was settled and that the house was hers.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</SPAN></span></p>
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