<h2> CHAPTER III </h2>
<h3> “Stoppa! Backa!” cried the native pilot to the European engineer. </h3>
<p>The bluff bows of the stern-wheeler had squelched into the soft brown mud,
and the current had swept the boat alongside the bank. The long gangway
was thrown across, and the six tall soldiers of the Soudanese escort filed
along it, their light-blue, gold-trimmed zouave uniforms and their jaunty
yellow and red forage caps showing up bravely in the clear morning light.</p>
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<p>Above them, on the top of the bank, was ranged the line of donkeys, and
the air was full of the clamour of the boys. In shrill, strident voices
each was crying out the virtues of his own beast, and abusing that of his
neighbour.</p>
<p>Colonel Cochrane and Mr. Belmont stood together in the bows, each wearing
the broad white puggareed hat of the tourist. Miss Adams and her niece
leaned against the rail beside them.</p>
<p>“Sorry your wife isn't coming, Belmont,” said the Colonel.</p>
<p>“I think she had a touch of the sun yesterday. Her head aches very badly.”</p>
<p>His voice was strong and thick like his figure.</p>
<p>“I should stay to keep her company, Mr. Belmont,” said the little American
old maid; “but I learn that Mrs. Shlesinger finds the ride too long for
her, and has some letters which she must mail to-day, so Mrs. Belmont will
not be lonesome.”</p>
<p>“You're very good, Miss Adams. We shall be back, you know, by two
o'clock.”</p>
<p>“Is that certain?”</p>
<p>“It must be certain, for we are taking no lunch with us, and we shall be
famished by then.”</p>
<p>“Yes, I expect we shall be ready for a hock and seltzer, at any rate,”
said the Colonel. “This desert dust gives a flavour to the worst wine.”</p>
<p>“Now, ladies and gentlemen!” cried Mansoor, the dragoman, moving forward
with something of the priest in his flowing garments and smooth,
clean-shaven face. “We must start early that we may return before the
meridial heat of the weather.” He ran his dark eyes over the little group
of his tourists with a paternal expression. “You take your green glasses,
Miss Adams, for glare very great out in the desert. Ah, Mr. Stuart, I set
aside very fine donkey for you,—prize donkey, sir, always put aside
for the gentleman of most weight. Never mind to take your monument ticket
to-day. Now, ladies and gentlemen, if <i>you</i> please!”</p>
<p>Like a grotesque frieze the party moved one by one along the plank gangway
and up the brown crumbling bank. Mr. Stephens led them, a thin, dry,
serious figure, in an English straw hat. His red “Baedeker” gleamed under
his arm, and in one hand he held a little paper of notes, as if it were a
brief. He took Miss Sadie by one arm and her aunt by the other as they
toiled up the bank, and the young girl's laughter rang frank and clear in
the morning air as “Baedeker” came fluttering down at their feet. Mr.
Belmont and Colonel Cochrane followed, the brims of their sun-hats
touching as they discussed the relative advantages of the Mauser, the
Lebel, and the Lee-Metford. Behind them walked Cecil Brown, listless,
cynical, self-contained. The fat clergyman puffed slowly up the bank, with
many gasping witticisms at his own defects. “I'm one of those men who
carry everything before them,” said he, glancing ruefully at his
rotundity, and chuckling wheezily at his own little joke. Last of all came
Headingly, slight and tall, with the student stoop about his shoulders,
and Fardet, the good-natured, fussy, argumentative Parisian.</p>
<p>“You see we have an escort to-day,” he whispered to his companion.</p>
<p>“So I observed.”</p>
<p>“Pah!” cried the Frenchman, throwing out his arms in derision; “as well
have an escort from Paris to Versailles. This is all part of the play,
Monsieur Headingly. It deceives no one, but it is part of the play.</p>
<p><i>Pourquoi ces drôles de militaires, dragoman, hein?</i>”</p>
<p>It was the dragoman's <i>rôle</i> to be all things to all men, so he
looked cautiously round before he answered to make sure that the English
were mounted and out of earshot.</p>
<p>“<i>C'est ridicule, monsieur!</i>” said he, shrugging his fat shoulders. “<i>Mais
que voulez-vous? C'est l'ordre officiel Egyptien.</i>”</p>
<p>“<i>Egyptien! Pah, Anglais, Anglais—toujours Anglais!</i>” cried the
angry Frenchman.</p>
<p>The frieze now was more grotesque than ever, but had changed suddenly to
an equestrian one, sharply outlined against the deep-blue Egyptian sky.
Those who have never ridden before have to ride in Egypt, and when the
donkeys break into a canter, and the Nile Irregulars are at full charge,
such a scene of flying veils, clutching hands, huddled swaying figures,
and anxious faces is nowhere to be seen. Belmont, his square figure
balanced upon a small white donkey, was waving his hat to his wife, who
had come out upon the saloon-deck of the <i>Korosko</i>. Cochrane sat very
erect with a stiff military seat, hands low, head high, and heels down,
while beside him rode the young Oxford man, looking about him with
drooping eyelids as if he thought the desert hardly respectable, and had
his doubts about the Universe. Behind them the whole party was strung
along the bank in varying stages of jolting and discomfort, a brown-faced,
noisy donkey-boy running after each donkey. Looking back, they could see
the little lead-coloured stern-wheeler, with the gleam of Mrs. Belmont's
handkerchief from the deck. Beyond ran the broad, brown river, winding
down in long curves to where, five miles off, the square, white
block-houses upon the black, ragged hills marked the outskirts of Wady
Haifa, which had been their starting-point that morning.</p>
<p>“Isn't it just too lovely for anything?” cried Sadie, joyously. “I've got
a donkey that runs on casters, and the saddle is just elegant. Did you
ever see anything so cunning as these beads and things round his neck? You
must make a memo, <i>re</i> donkey, Mr. Stephens. Isn't that correct legal
English?”</p>
<p>Stephens looked at the pretty, animated, boyish face looking up at him
from under the coquettish straw hat, and he wished that he had the courage
to tell her in her own language that she was just too sweet for anything.
But he feared above all things lest he should offend her, and so put an
end to their present pleasant intimacy. So his compliment dwindled into a
smile.</p>
<p>“You look very happy,” said he.</p>
<p>“Well, who could help feeling good with this dry, clear air, and the blue
sky and the crisp, yellow sand, and a superb donkey to carry you. I've
just got everything in the world to make me happy.”</p>
<p>“Everything?”</p>
<p>“Well, everything that I have any use for just now.”</p>
<p>“I suppose you never know what it is to be sad?”</p>
<p>“Oh, when I <i>am</i> miserable I am just too miserable for words. I've
sat and cried for days and days at Smith's College, and the other girls
were just crazy to know what I was crying about, and guessing what the
reason was that I wouldn't tell, when all the time the real true reason
was that I didn't know myself. You know how it comes like a great dark
shadow over you, and you don't know why or wherefore, but you've just got
to settle down to it and be miserable.”</p>
<p>“But you never had any real cause?”</p>
<p>“No, Mr. Stephens, I've had such a good time all my life, that I don't
think, when I look back, that I ever had any real cause for sorrow.”</p>
<p>“Well, Miss Sadie, I hope with all my heart that you will be able to say
the same when you are the same age as your Aunt. Surely I hear her
calling!”</p>
<p>“I wish, Mr. Stephens, you would strike my donkey-boy with your whip if he
hits the donkey again,” cried Miss Adams, jogging up on a high, raw-Boned
beast. “Hi, dragoman, Mansoor, you tell this boy that I won't have the
animals ill used, and that he ought to be ashamed of himself. Yes, you
little rascal, you ought! He's grinning at me like an advertisement for a
tooth paste. Do you think, Mr. Stephens, that if I were to knit that black
soldier a pair of woollen stockings he would be allowed to wear them? The
poor creature has bandages round his legs.”</p>
<p>“Those are his putties, Miss Adams,” said Colonel Cochrane, looking back
at her. “We have found in India that they are the best support to the leg
in marching. They are very much better than any stocking.”</p>
<p>“Well, you don't say! They remind me mostly of a sick horse. But it's
elegant to have the soldiers with us, though Monsieur Fardet tells me
there's nothing for us to be scared about.”</p>
<p>“That is only my opinion, Miss Adams,” said the Frenchman, hastily. “It
may be that Colonel Cochrane thinks otherwise.”</p>
<p>“It is Monsieur Fardet's opinion against that of the officers who have the
responsibility of caring for the safety of the frontier,” said the
Colonel, coldly. “At least we will all agree that they have the effect of
making the scene very much more picturesque.”</p>
<p>The desert upon their right lay in long curves of sand, like the dunes
which might have fringed some forgotten primeval sea. Topping them they
could see the black, craggy summits of the curious volcanic hills which
rise upon the Libyan side. On the crest of the low sand-hills they would
catch a glimpse every now and then of a tall, sky-blue soldier, walking
swiftly, his rifle at the trail. For a moment the lank, warlike figure
would be sharply silhouetted against the sky. Then he would dip into a
hollow and disappear, while some hundred yards off another would show for
an instant and vanish.</p>
<p>“Wherever are they raised?” asked Sadie, watching the moving figures.
“They look to me just about the same tint as the hotel boys in the
States.”</p>
<p>“I thought some question might arise about them,” said Mr. Stephens, who
was never so happy as when he could anticipate some wish of the pretty
American. “I made one or two references this morning in the ship's
library. Here it is—<i>re</i>—that's to say, about black
soldiers. I have it on my notes that they are from the 10th Soudanese
battalion of the Egyptian army. They are recruited from the Dinkas and the
Shilluks—two negroid tribes living to the south of the Dervish
country, near the Equator.”</p>
<p>“How can the recruits come through the Dervishes, then?” asked Headingly,
sharply.</p>
<p>“I dare say there is no such very great difficulty over that,” said
Monsieur Fardet, with a wink at the American.</p>
<p>“The older men are the remains of the old black battalions. Some of them
served with Gordon at Khartoum and have his medal to show. The others are
many of them deserters from the Mahdi's army,” said the Colonel.</p>
<p>“Well, so long as they are not wanted, they look right elegant in those
blue jackets,” Miss Adams observed. “But if there was any trouble, I guess
we would wish they were less ornamental and a bit whiter.”</p>
<p>“I am not so sure of that, Miss Adams,” said the Colonel. “I have seen
these fellows in the field, and I assure you that I have the utmost
confidence in their steadiness.”</p>
<p>“Well, I'll take your word without trying,” said Miss Adams, with a
decision which made every one smile.</p>
<p>So far their road had lain along the side of the river, which was swirling
down upon their left hand deep and strong from the cataracts above. Here
and there the rush of the current was broken by a black shining boulder
over which the foam was spouting. Higher up they could see the white gleam
of the rapids, and the banks grew into rugged cliffs, which were capped by
a peculiar, outstanding, semicircular rock. It did not require the
dragoman's aid to tell the party that this was the famous landmark to
which they were bound. A long, level stretch lay before them, and the
donkeys took it at a canter. At the farther side were scattered rocks,
black upon orange; and in the midst of them rose some broken shafts of
pillars and a length of engraved wall, looking in its greyness and its
solidity more like some work of Nature than of man. The fat, sleek
dragoman had dismounted, and stood waiting in his petticoats and his
cover-coat for the stragglers to gather round him.</p>
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<p>“This temple, ladies and gentlemen,” he cried, with the air of an
auctioneer who is about to sell it to the highest bidder, “very fine
example from the eighteenth dynasty. Here is the cartouche of Thotmes the
Third,” he pointed up with his donkey-whip at the rude, but deep,
hieroglyphics upon the wall above him. “He live sixteen hundred years
before Christ, and this is made to remember his victorious exhibition into
Mesopotamia. Here we have his history from the time that he was with his
mother, until he return with captives tied to his chariot. In this you see
him crowned with Lower Egypt, and with Upper Egypt offering up sacrifice
in honour of his victory to the God Ammon-ra. Here he bring his captives
before him, and he cut off each his right hand. In this corner you see
little pile—all right hands.”</p>
<p>“My sakes, I shouldn't have liked to be here in those days,” said Miss
Adams.</p>
<p>“Why, there's nothing altered,” remarked Cecil Brown. “The East is still
the East. I've no doubt that within a hundred miles, or perhaps a good
deal less, from where you stand—”</p>
<p>“Shut up!” whispered the Colonel, and the party shuffled on down the line
of the wall with their faces up and their big hats thrown backwards. The
sun behind them struck the old grey masonry with a brassy glare, and
carried on to it the strange black shadows of the tourists, mixing them up
with the grim, high-nosed, square-shouldered warriors, and the grotesque,
rigid deities who lined it. The broad shadow of the Reverend John Stuart,
of Birmingham, smudged out both the heathen King and the god whom he
worshipped.</p>
<p>“What's this?” he was asking in his wheezy voice, pointing up with a
yellow Assouan cane.</p>
<p>“That is a hippopotamus,” said the dragoman; and the tourists all
tittered, for there was just a suspicion of Mr. Stuart himself in the
carving.</p>
<p>“But it isn't bigger than a little pig,” he protested. “You see that the
King is putting his spear through it with ease.”</p>
<p>“They make it small to show that it was a very small thing to the King,”
said the dragoman. “So you see that all the King's prisoners do not exceed
his knee—which is not because he was so much taller, but so much
more powerful. You see that he is bigger than his horse, because he is a
king and the other is only a horse. The same way, these small women whom
you see here and there are just his trivial little wives.”</p>
<p>“Well, now!” cried Miss Adams, indignantly. “If they had sculped that
King's soul it would have needed a lens to see it. Fancy his allowing his
wives to be put in like that.”</p>
<p>“If he did it now, Miss Adams,” said the Frenchman, “he would have more
fighting than ever in Mesopotamia. But time brings revenge. Perhaps the
day will soon come when we have the picture of the big, strong wife and
the trivial little husband—<i>hein?</i>”</p>
<p>Cecil Brown and Headingly had dropped behind, for the glib comments of the
dragoman, and the empty, light-hearted chatter of the tourists jarred upon
their sense of solemnity. They stood in silence watching the grotesque
procession, with its sun-hats and green veils, as it passed in the vivid
sunshine down the front of the old grey wall. Above them two crested
hoopoes were fluttering and calling amid the ruins of the pylon.</p>
<p>“Isn't it a sacrilege?” said the Oxford man, at last.</p>
<p>“Well, now, I'm glad you feel that about it, because it's how it always
strikes me,” Headingly answered, with feeling. “I'm not quite clear in my
own mind how these things should be approached,—if they are to be
approached at all,—but I am sure this is not the way. On the whole,
I prefer the ruins that I have not seen to those which I have.”</p>
<p>The young diplomatist looked up with his peculiarly bright smile, which
faded away too soon into his languid, <i>blasé</i> mask.</p>
<p>“I've got a map,” said the American, “and sometimes far away from anything
in the very midst of the waterless, trackless desert, I see 'ruins' marked
upon it—or 'remains of a temple,' perhaps. For example, the temple
of Jupiter Ammon, which was one of the most considerable shrines in the
world, was hundreds of miles from anywhere. Those are the ruins, solitary,
unseen, unchanging through the centuries, which appeal to one's
imagination. But when I present a check at the door, and go in as if it
were Barnum's show, all the subtle feeling of romance goes right out of
it.”</p>
<p>“Absolutely!” said Cecil Brown, looking over the desert with his dark,
intolerant eyes. “If one could come wandering here alone—stumble
upon it by chance, as it were—and find one's self in absolute
solitude in the dim light of the temple, with these grotesque figures all
around, it would be perfectly overwhelming. A man would be prostrated with
wonder and awe. But when Belmont is puffing his bulldog pipe, and Stuart
is wheezing, and Miss Sadie Adams is laughing——”</p>
<p>“And that jay of a dragoman speaking his piece,” said Headingly; “I want
to stand and think all the time, and I never seem to get the chance. I was
ripe for manslaughter when I stood before the Great Pyramid, and couldn't
get a quiet moment because they would boost me on to the top. I took a
kick at one man which would have sent <i>him</i> to the top in one jump if
I had hit meat. But fancy travelling all the way from America to see the
pyramid, and then finding nothing better to do than to kick an Arab in
front of it!”</p>
<p>The Oxford man laughed in his gentle, tired fashion.</p>
<p>“They are starting again,” said he, and the two hastened forwards to take
their places at the tail of the absurd procession.</p>
<p>Their route ran now among large, scattered boulders, and between stony,
shingly hills. A narrow, winding path curved in and out amongst the rocks.
Behind them their view was cut off by similar hills, black and fantastic,
like the slag-heaps at the shaft of a mine. A silence fell upon the little
company, and even Sadie's bright face reflected the harshness of Nature.
The escort had closed in, and marched beside them, their boots scrunching
among the loose black rubble. Colonel Cochrane and Belmont were still
riding together in the van.</p>
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<p>“Do you know, Belmont,” said the Colonel, in a low voice, “you may think
me a fool, but I don't like this one little bit.”</p>
<p>Belmont gave a short gruff laugh.</p>
<p>“It seemed all right in the saloon of the <i>Korosko</i>, but now that we
are here we <i>do</i> seem rather up in the air,” said he. “Still, you
know, a party comes here every week, and nothing has ever yet gone wrong.”</p>
<p>“I don't mind taking my chances when I am on the war-path,” the Colonel
answered. “That's all straightforward and in the way of business. But when
you have women with you, and a helpless crowd like this, it becomes really
dreadful. Of course, the chances are a hundred to one that we have no
trouble; but if we should have—well, it won't bear thinking about.
The wonderful thing is their complete unconsciousness that there is any
danger whatever.”</p>
<p>“Well, I like the English tailor-made dresses well enough for walking, Mr.
Stephens,” said Miss Sadie from behind them. “But for an afternoon dress,
I think the French have more style than the English. Your milliners have a
more severe cut, and they don't do the cunning little ribbons and bows and
things in the same way.”</p>
<p>The Colonel smiled at Belmont.</p>
<p>“<i>She</i> is quite serene in her mind, at any rate,” said he. “Of
course, I wouldn't say what I think to any one but you, and I dare say it
will all prove to be quite unfounded.”</p>
<p>“Well, I could imagine parties of Dervishes on the prowl,” said Belmont.
“But what I cannot imagine is that they should just happen to come to the
pulpit rock on the very morning when we are due there.”</p>
<p>“Considering that our movements have been freely advertised, and that
every one knows a week beforehand what our programme is, and where we are
to be found, it does not strike me as being such a wonderful coincidence.”</p>
<p>“It is a very remote chance,” said Belmont, stoutly, but he was glad in
his heart that his wife was safe and snug on board the steamer.</p>
<p>And now they were clear of the rocks again, with a fine stretch of firm
yellow sand extending to the very base of the conical hill which lay
before them. “Ay-ah! Ayah!” cried the boys, and whack came their sticks
upon the flanks of the donkeys, which broke into a gallop, and away they
all streamed over the plain. It was not until they had come to the end of
the path which curves up the hill that the dragoman called a halt.</p>
<p>“Now, ladies and gentlemen, we are arrived for the so famous pulpit rock
of Abousir. From the summit you will presently enjoy a panorama of
remarkable fertility. But first you will observe that over the rocky side
of the hill are everywhere cut the names of great men who have passed it
in their travels, and some of these names are older than the time of
Christ.”</p>
<p>“Got Moses?” asked Miss Adams.</p>
<p>“Auntie, I'm surprised at you!” cried Sadie.</p>
<p>“Well, my dear, he was in Egypt, and he was a great man, and he may have
passed this way.”</p>
<p>“Moses's name very likely there, and the same with Herodotus,” said the
dragoman, gravely. “Both have been long worn away. But there on the brown
rock you will see Belzoni. And up higher is Gordon. There is hardly a name
famous in the Soudan which you will not find, if you like. And now, with
your permission, we shall take good-bye of our donkeys and walk up the
path, and you will see the river and the desert from the summit of the
top.”</p>
<p>A minute or two of climbing brought them out upon the semicircular
platform which crowns the rock. Below them on the far side was a
perpendicular black cliff, a hundred and fifty feet high, with the
swirling, foam-streaked river roaring past its base. The swish of the
water and the low roar as it surged over the mid-stream boulders boomed
through the hot, stagnant air. Far up and far down they could see the
course of the river, a quarter of a mile in breadth, and running very deep
and strong, with sleek black eddies and occasional spoutings of foam. On
the other side was a frightful wilderness of black, scattered rocks, which
were the <i>débris</i> carried down by the river at high flood. In no
direction were there any signs of human beings or their dwellings.</p>
<p>“On the far side,” said the dragoman, waving his donkey-whip towards the
east, “is the military line which conducts Wady Haifa to Sarras. Sarras
lies to the south, under that black hill. Those two blue mountains which
you see very far away are in Dongola, more than a hundred miles from
Sarras. The railway there is forty miles long, and has been much annoyed
by the Dervishes, who are very glad to turn the rails into spears. The
telegraph wires are also much appreciated thereby. Now, if you will kindly
turn round, I will explain, also, what we see upon the other side.”</p>
<p>It was a view which, when once seen, must always haunt the mind. Such an
expanse of savage and unrelieved desert might be part of some cold and
burned-out planet rather than of this fertile and bountiful earth. Away
and away it stretched to die into a soft, violet haze in the extremest
distance. In the foreground the sand was of a bright golden yellow, which
was quite dazzling in the sunshine. Here and there in a scattered cordon
stood the six trusty negro soldiers leaning motionless upon their rifles,
and each throwing a shadow which looked as solid as himself. But beyond
this golden plain lay a low line of those black slag-heaps, with yellow
sand-valleys winding between them. These in their turn were topped by
higher and more fantastic hills, and these by others, peeping over each
other's shoulders until they blended with that distant violet haze. None
of these hills were of any height,—a few hundred feet at the most,—but
their savage, saw-toothed crests and their steep scarps of sun-baked stone
gave them a fierce character of their own.</p>
<p>“The Libyan desert,” said the dragoman, with a proud wave of his hand.
“The greatest desert in the world. Suppose you travel right west from
here, and turn neither to the north nor to the south, the first houses you
would come to would be in America. That make you homesick, Miss Adams, I
believe?”</p>
<p>But the American old maid had her attention drawn away by the conduct of
Sadie, who had caught her arm by one hand and was pointing over the desert
with the other.</p>
<p>“Well, now, if that isn't too picturesque for anything!” she cried, with a
flush of excitement upon her pretty face. “Do look, Mr. Stephens! That's
just the one only thing we wanted to make it just perfectly grand. See the
men upon the camels coming out from between those hills!”</p>
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<p>They all looked at the long string of red-turbaned riders who were winding
out of the ravine, and there fell such a hush that the buzzing of the
flies sounded quite loud upon their ears. Colonel Cochrane had lit a
match, and he stood with it in one hand and the unlit cigarette in the
other until the flame licked round his fingers. Belmont whistled. The
dragoman stood staring with his mouth half-open, and a curious slaty tint
in his full, red lips. The others looked from one to the other with an
uneasy sense that there was something wrong. It was the Colonel who broke
the silence.</p>
<p>“By George, Belmont, I believe the hundred-to-one chance has come off!”
said he.</p>
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