<h3><SPAN name="CHAPTER_XXXII" id="CHAPTER_XXXII">CHAPTER XXXII.</SPAN> <br/>At Buffalo Bill's ranch</h3>
<p class="toclink"><SPAN href="#TOC-II">TOC</SPAN></p>
<p class="center">BY PYE POD.</p>
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<p>It has come about that now, to many a Royal Society, the Creation
of a World is little more mysterious than the cooking of a
dumpling; concerning which last, indeed, there have been minds
to whom the question, <em>How the apples</em> were got in, presented
difficulties.<cite>—Sartor Resartus.</cite></p>
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<p>It was noon at Big Springs, the last village on the
Union Pacific Railroad in Nebraska, when I sat down
to write in my dairy. I had just finished a combination
breakfast and dinner, warranted to kill any appetite and
keep it dead for twelve hours. Consequently I wrote
under great pressure.</p>
<p>Since striking Camp Coyote, I had shot prairie dogs,
owls, jack-rabbits, and gophers innumerable, but on Wednesday,
June 30, I killed my first rattlesnake. It was not
the first we had seen, but the first to lie in our path. I
wanted to shoot it's head off, but instead of it losing its
head, I lost mine, and severed its vertebræ. The snake
was three feet five, and possessed eight rattles and a button.
Cookskin suggested that the button might come in
handy in many ways. "You know, Pod, you are always
losing buttons."</p>
<p>These dreaded reptiles abound on the plains, particularly
in dogtowns, where they can dine on superfluous
baby-dogs when families become too large. Three sorts
of creatures, including the owl—animal, bird, and reptile—bunk
together companionably, but have quarrels of their
own, doubtless, like mankind in domestic affairs. At
that season the South Platte was drained for irrigation
in Colorado. I was riding peaceably along, watching
its morbid current and the gray hills beyond, when suddenly
my valet yelled to me, "Look out, Pod, a rattler
ahead!"</p>
<p>Coonskin was riding Cheese, who leaped to one side,
but my own steed, blinded by his spectacle-frames, walked
on and stepped over the coiled snake, which struck at my
leg. Fortunately my canvas legging protected me from
the reptile's fangs, which glanced off, letting him fall in
the trail. Instantly I turned in my saddle and ended its
miserable existence.</p>
<p>The report of my revolver attracted some cowboys,
who galloped up on their rope horses and accompanied
us to their adobe house a few miles beyond. It was five
in the afternoon, the day was hot, and our journey long
and dusty. They were a jolly lot. Thir ranch was a
square sod structure, without a floor, and sparingly furnished,
but cool and comfortable.</p>
<p>"We'll have hot biscuit for supper," said one of the
cowboys.</p>
<p>"So you like cooking," I remarked; "I pride myself
on the dumplings I make, and my flapjacks are marvels
of construction."</p>
<p>"Hang together well, I suppose," observed the cook,
smiling and piling buffalo chips in the stove.</p>
<p>"I haven't tasted dumplings since I visited the World's
Fair," said another.</p>
<p>"Well," declared the first speaker, "my tenderfoot
friend, your oven will soon be hot, and the flour, soda,
shortening, and apples are on the shelf. Anything else
you need, ask for it."</p>
<p>I was in a bad fix; I remembered the parrot that got
into trouble with the bull-terrier by talking too much.</p>
<p>"It requires a long time to steam dumplings; it will
delay supper," I protested.</p>
<p>"We shan't turn you out, if it takes you all night, but
we'll shoot the enamel off your front teeth if you don't
make them apple dumplings, and do your best," said a
cowboy.</p>
<p>"All right, boys, I'll try my luck, and you can save
time by helping."</p>
<p>"Sure," all replied.</p>
<p>"Fetch me the shortening," I called.</p>
<p>"Right before your eyes," said one.</p>
<p>"Blamed if I can see it," I explained. The fellow put
his hands on a cake of greasy-looking substance.</p>
<p>"That's soap," I said, remonstrating, with a chuckle.</p>
<p>"All we use for shortening," apologized the cook;
"don't see much butter or lard out on this here desert."</p>
<p>I fell to with a will. Before long my dough was mixed.
As I rolled it out with a tin can, I directed a cowboy to
put in the apples and roll up the dough. Soon the dumplings
were in the steamer, and the cook began to prepare
other eatables for the meal. Then, my duty done, I
watched two fellows throw the lariat, and shoot the fly
specks off Coonskin's hat in midair.</p>
<p>At last, five hearty eaters sat down to dinner. The
cook's hot biscuits, potatoes, bacon, eggs and coffee were
delicious, and I devoured them greedily. But in the middle
of our repast I turned my head in time to detect the
cook meddling with the dumplings.</p>
<p>"Shouldn't take off the cover till they're done," I
shouted; "makes 'em heavy."</p>
<p>"Didn't take it off—lifted itself off," explained the man,
regarding me first, then the steamer. "Man alive, the
dumplings are as big as cabbages."</p>
<p>"And 'tain't more'n likely they've got their growth
yet," said Coonskin, who examined the wonders.</p>
<p>"Gracious!" I exclaimed. "How many apples did you
cram into each dumpling?"</p>
<p>"Only fifteen or twenty," the cook returned; "awfully
small, you know."</p>
<p>"That explains the size of them," said I. "You've got
a half dozen whole apples in each dumpling, and a peck
or more in the steamer. Don't you know dried fruit
swells?"</p>
<p>"But how am I to keep the lid on the steamer," asked
the hungry cook, wistfully eying the disappearing meal.</p>
<p>"Sit on it, you crazy loon," suggested a companion.</p>
<p>And the fellow did. Presently there was a deafening
report, and the cook was lifted off the steamer, while
dumplings flew in every direction, striking the ceiling,
and then, from heaviness, dropping on the floor. One
broke my plate into a dozen pieces. Another hot and
saucy dumpling shot through the bursted side of the
steamer, hitting one of the cowboys in the eye.</p>
<p>"Just my luck," I said; "they would have been as light
as a feather."</p>
<p>"Light!" exclaimed the injured fellow with a handkerchief
against his scalded optic. "It was the heaviest
thing that ever hit me, let me tell you, and I've been
punching cattle seven years."</p>
<p>When the excitement was over, and we had found sufficient
grub to complete our meal, all assembled in the cool
outer air, where Coonskin and I entertained with our
musical instruments until bedtime.</p>
<p>Next morning, on my suggestion, a cowboy threw his
lariat round my body good-naturedly and pulled me over,
but before I could right myself Don took three bounds
and pulled the fellow down by the shoulder, frightening
one and all. I shouted so loudly to the dog that I was
hoarse for a week. That demonstration of Don's loyalty
was a revelation to me. The man was not injured, although
his coat was torn.</p>
<p>The lack of energy and enterprise of the town of the
western plains was both surprising and amusing. I expected
a package of photos at Willow Island. When I
called for it I was informed that the railroad station had
burned a few months before, and that their express
stopped at Cozad, which I had passed through. So I
wrote to have the package forwarded to a station farther
west.</p>
<p>Gothenburg, the next town, was in a decline, the reaction
of a boom. A traveler approaching it expects to
find a business center. Many stores and dwellings were
of brick, but whole rows were vacant at the time. The
soothing melody of the squalling infant was only a
memory to the village druggist; the itinerant butcher
and milkman had ceased their daily rounds; and all that
was left to distinguish the half-deserted village from the
desert was an occasional swallow that went down the
parched mouth of a chimney. There is another town
characteristic of the plains. I had a letter to post at
Paxton, but forgot it; some miles beyond, a ranchman
whom we met said I would find a post-office at Korty, five
miles further on. After traveling two hours, we could
see no vestige of a village anywhere. Don ran ahead to
the top of every sand hill and stood on his hind feet to
have the first peep at the mysterious town. I came to
the conclusion the ranchman had said twenty-five miles
instead of five. Finally the trail approached the railroad.</p>
<p>"I see the town of Korty!" my valet exclaimed.</p>
<p>"Where?" I asked.</p>
<p>"There. Plain as day. Can't you see it?" he asked,
pointing straight ahead.</p>
<p>"I must confess I can't," I replied. "Let me look over
your finger." Then I saw it. It wasn't one hundred
feet away. A single white-painted post stood beside the
track, and on it was nailed a cross-bar, lettered in bold
type, "Korty;" underneath was a letter-box. That was
the town. There was no section house, no water tank,
no break in the wire fence, and there being, of course, no
general delivery window in the "post-office," I did not ask
for my mail.</p>
<p>On the way to North Platte, we passed the site of old
Ft. McPherson, where Buffalo Bill, the celebrated scout,
once lived and won his fame and title by providing
buffalo meat for the Government, and also the site of a
notorious Pawnee village, now called Pawnee Springs.
We reached North Platte, situated at the confluence of
the North and South Platte rivers, which form the great
River Platte, Saturday afternoon, and spent Sunday in
a manner to meet the approval of the most pious.</p>
<p>That first evening I lectured from a large dry-goods
box on a prominent corner.</p>
<p>Sunday afternoon an old friend and classmate drove
me into the country to the famous "Scout's Rest Ranch,"
the estate of Mr. Cody (Buffalo Bill), where I saw a herd
of buffalo and a cornfield of 500 acres.</p>
<p>"There is quite a contrast between your cornfield and
mine," I said to the manager.</p>
<p>"How big a cornfield have you?"</p>
<p>"Just a small one," I replied. "One acher on each big
toe."</p>
<p>"I see, only sufficient for your own use," came the response;
"your 'stock in' trade, as it were." Then the
ranchman purchased a photo, and we two grown-up school
boys drove back to town, in time to escape a thunder
shower.</p>
<p>The country between North Platte and Julesburg is a
desolate and barren region. Occasionally we could see
a ranch house, sometimes cattle grazing on I knew not
what. There was plenty of alkali grass in the bottom
lands of the Platte, and further back on the mesa, patches
of the short and nutritious buffalo grass, half seared by
the scorching sun. The railway stations, with one or two
exceptions, consisted of water tanks and section houses,
where water could be procured. At Ogalala we met a
train-load of Christian Endeavorers, and had a chance
to quench our thirst.</p>
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