<SPAN name="chap06"></SPAN>
<h3> VI </h3>
<h3> SISTERS UNDER THEIR SKIN </h3>
<p>Women who know the joys and sorrows of a pay envelope do not speak of
girls who work as Working Girls. Neither do they use the term Laboring
Class, as one would speak of a distinct and separate race, like the
Ethiopian.</p>
<p>Emma McChesney Buck was no exception to this rule. Her fifteen years
of man-size work for a man-size salary in the employ of the T. A. Buck
Featherloom Petticoat Company, New York, precluded that. In those
days, she had been Mrs. Emma McChesney, known from coast to coast as
the most successful traveling saleswoman in the business. It was due
to her that no feminine clothes-closet was complete without a
Featherloom dangling from one hook. During those fifteen years she had
educated her son, Jock McChesney, and made a man of him; she had
worked, fought, saved, triumphed, smiled under hardship; and she had
acquired a broad and deep knowledge of those fascinating and
diversified subjects which we lump carelessly under the heading of
Human Nature. She was Mrs. T. A. Buck now, wife of the head of the
firm, and partner in the most successful skirt manufactory in the
country. But the hard-working, clear-thinking, sane-acting habits of
those fifteen years still clung.</p>
<p>Perhaps this explained why every machine-girl in the big, bright shop
back of the offices raised adoring eyes when Emma entered the workroom.
Italian, German, Hungarian, Russian—they lifted their faces toward
this source of love and sympathetic understanding as naturally as a
plant turns its leaves toward the sun. They glowed under her praise;
they confided to her their troubles; they came to her with their
joys—and they copied her clothes.</p>
<p>This last caused her some uneasiness. When Mrs. T. A. Buck wore blue
serge, an epidemic of blue serge broke out in the workroom. Did Emma's
spring hat flaunt flowers, the elevators, at closing time, looked like
gardens abloom. If she appeared on Monday morning in severely tailored
white-linen blouse, the shop on Tuesday was a Boston seminary in its
starched primness.</p>
<p>"It worries me," Emma told her husband-partner. "I can't help thinking
of the story of the girl and the pet chameleon. What would happen if I
were to forget myself some day and come down to work in black velvet
and pearls?"</p>
<p>"They'd manage it somehow," Buck assured her. "I don't know just how;
but I'm sure that twenty-four hours later our shop would look like a
Buckingham drawing-room when the court is in mourning."</p>
<p>Emma never ceased to marvel at their ingenuity, at their almost uncanny
clothes-instinct. Their cheap skirts hung and fitted with an art as
perfect as that of a Fifty-seventh Street modiste; their blouses, in
some miraculous way, were of to-day's style, down to the last detail of
cuff or collar or stitching; their hats were of the shape that the
season demanded, set at the angle that the season approved, and
finished with just that repression of decoration which is known as
"single trimming." They wore their clothes with a chic that would make
the far-famed Parisian outriere look dowdy and down at heel in
comparison. Upper Fifth Avenue, during the shopping or tea-hour, has
been sung, painted, vaunted, boasted. Its furs and millinery, its eyes
and figure, its complexion and ankles have flashed out at us from ten
thousand magazine covers, have been adjectived in reams of
Sunday-supplement stories. Who will picture Lower Fifth Avenue between
five and six, when New York's unsung beauties pour into the streets
from a thousand loft-buildings? Theirs is no mere empty pink-and-white
prettiness. Poverty can make prettiness almost poignantly lovely, for
it works with a scalpel. Your Twenty-sixth Street beauty has a certain
wistful appeal that your Forty-sixth Street beauty lacks; her very
bravado, too, which falls just short of boldness, adds a final piquant
touch. In the face of the girl who works, whether she be a
spindle-legged errand-girl or a ten-thousand-a-year foreign buyer, you
will find both vivacity and depth of expression. What she loses in
softness and bloom she gains in a something that peeps from her eyes,
that lurks in the corners of her mouth. Emma never tired of studying
them—these girls with their firm, slim throats, their lovely faces,
their Oriental eyes, and their conscious grace. Often, as she looked,
an unaccountable mist of tears would blur her vision.</p>
<p>So that sunny little room whose door was marked "MRS. BUCK" had come to
be more than a mere private office for the transaction of business. It
was a clearing-house for trouble; it was a shrine, a confessional, and
a court of justice. When Carmela Colarossi, her face swollen with
weeping, told a story of parental harshness grown unbearable, Emma
would put aside business to listen, and six o'clock would find her
seated in the dark and smelly Colarossi kitchen, trying, with all her
tact and patience and sympathy, to make home life possible again for
the flashing-eyed Carmela. When the deft, brown fingers of Otti Markis
became clumsy at her machine, and her wage slumped unaccountably from
sixteen to six dollars a week, it was in Emma's quiet little office
that it became clear why Otti's eyes were shadowed and why Otti's mouth
drooped so pathetically. Emma prescribed a love philter made up of
common sense, understanding, and world-wisdom. Otti took it, only half
comprehending, but sure of its power. In a week, Otti's eyes were
shadowless, her lips smiling, her pay-envelope bulging. But it was in
Sophy Kumpf that the T. A. Buck Company best exemplified its policy.
Sophy Kumpf had come to Buck's thirty years before, slim, pink-cheeked,
brown-haired. She was a grandmother now, at forty-six, broad-bosomed,
broad-hipped, but still pink of cheek and brown of hair. In those
thirty years she had spent just three away from Buck's. She had brought
her children into the world; she had fed them and clothed them and sent
them to school, had Sophy, and seen them married, and helped them to
bring their children into the world in turn. In her round, red,
wholesome face shone a great wisdom, much love, and that infinite
understanding which is born only of bitter experience. She had come to
Buck's when old T. A. was just beginning to make Featherlooms a
national institution. She had seen his struggles, his prosperity; she
had grieved at his death; she had watched young T. A. take the reins in
his unaccustomed hands, and she had gloried in Emma McChesney's rise
from office to salesroom, from salesroom to road, from road to private
office and recognized authority. Sophy had left her early work far
behind. She had her own desk now in the busy workshop, and it was she
who allotted the piece-work, marked it in her much-thumbed ledger—that
powerful ledger which, at the week's end, decided just how plump or
thin each pay-envelope would be. So the shop and office at T. A.
Buck's were bound together by many ties of affection and sympathy and
loyalty; and these bonds were strongest where, at one end, they touched
Emma McChesney Buck, and, at the other, faithful Sophy Kumpf. Each a
triumphant example of Woman in Business.</p>
<p>It was at this comfortable stage of Featherloom affairs that the
Movement struck the T. A. Buck Company. Emma McChesney Buck had never
mingled much in movements. Not that she lacked sympathy with them; she
often approved of them, heart and soul. But she had been heard to say
that the Movers got on her nerves. Those well-dressed, glib, staccato
ladies who spoke with such ease from platforms and whose pictures
stared out at one from the woman's page failed, somehow, to convince
her. When Emma approved a new movement, it was generally in spite of
them, never because of them. She was brazenly unapologetic when she
said that she would rather listen to ten minutes of Sophy Kumpf's
world-wisdom than to an hour's talk by the most magnetic and
silken-clad spellbinder in any cause. For fifteen business years, in
the office, on the road, and in the thriving workshop, Emma McChesney
had met working women galore. Women in offices, women in stores, women
in hotels—chamber-maids, clerks, buyers, waitresses, actresses in road
companies, women demonstrators, occasional traveling saleswomen, women
in factories, scrubwomen, stenographers, models—every grade, type and
variety of working woman, trained and untrained. She never missed a
chance to talk with them. She never failed to learn from them. She
had been one of them, and still was. She was in the position of one who
is on the inside, looking out. Those other women urging this cause or
that were on the outside, striving to peer in.</p>
<p>The Movement struck T. A. Buck's at eleven o'clock Monday morning.
Eleven o'clock Monday morning in the middle of a busy fall season is
not a propitious moment for idle chit-chat. The three women who
stepped out of the lift at the Buck Company's floor looked very much
out of place in that hummingly busy establishment and appeared, on the
surface, at least, very chit-chatty indeed. So much so, that T. A.
Buck, glancing up from the cards which had preceded them, had
difficulty in repressing a frown of annoyance. T. A. Buck, during his
college-days, and for a lamentably long time after, had been known as
"Beau" Buck, because of his faultless clothes and his charming manner.
His eyes had something to do with it, too, no doubt. He had lived down
the title by sheer force of business ability. No one thought of using
the nickname now, though the clothes, the manner, and the eyes were the
same. At the entrance of the three women, he had been engrossed in the
difficult task of selling a fall line to Mannie Nussbaum, of Portland,
Oregon. Mannie was what is known as a temperamental buyer. He couldn't
be forced; he couldn't be coaxed; he couldn't be led. But when he
liked a line he bought like mad, never cancelled, and T. A. Buck had
just got him going. It spoke volumes for his self-control that he
could advance toward the waiting three, his manner correct, his
expression bland.</p>
<p>"I am Mr. Buck," he said. "Mrs. Buck is very much engaged. I
understand your visit has something to do with the girls in the shop.
I'm sure our manager will be able to answer any questions——"</p>
<p>The eldest women raised a protesting, white-gloved hand.</p>
<p>"Oh, no—no, indeed! We must see Mrs. Buck." She spoke in the crisp,
decisive platform-tones of one who is often addressed as "Madam
Chairman."</p>
<p>Buck took a firmer grip on his self-control.</p>
<p>"I'm sorry; Mrs. Buck is in the cutting-room."</p>
<p>"We'll wait," said the lady, brightly. She stepped back a pace. "This
is Miss Susan H. Croft"—indicating a rather sparse person of very
certain years—"But I need scarcely introduce her."</p>
<p>"Scarcely," murmured Buck, and wondered why.</p>
<p>"This is my daughter, Miss Gladys Orton-Wells."</p>
<p>Buck found himself wondering why this slim, negative creature should
have such sad eyes. There came an impatient snort from Mannie
Nussbaum. Buck waved a hasty hand in the direction of Emma's office.</p>
<p>"If you'll wait there, I'll send in to Mrs. Buck."</p>
<p>The three turned toward Emma's bright little office. Buck scribbled a
hasty word on one of the cards.</p>
<p>Emma McChesney Buck was leaning over the great cutting-table, shears in
hand. It might almost be said that she sprawled. Her eyes were very
bright, and her cheeks were very pink. Across the table stood a
designer and two cutters, and they were watching Emma with an
intentness as flattering as it was sincere. They were looking not only
at cloth but at an idea.</p>
<p>"Get that?" asked Emma crisply, and tapped the pattern spread before
her with the point of her shears. "That gives you the fulness without
bunching, d'you see?"</p>
<p>"Sure," assented Koritz, head designer; "but when you get it cut you'll
find this piece is wasted, ain't it?" He marked out a triangular
section of cloth with one expert forefinger.</p>
<p>"No; that works into the ruffle," explained Emma. "Here, I'll cut it.
Then you'll see."</p>
<p>She grasped the shears firmly in her right hand, smoothed the cloth
spread before her with a nervous little pat of her left, pushed her
bright hair back from her forehead, and prepared to cut. At which
critical moment there entered Annie, the errand-girl, with the three
bits of white pasteboard.</p>
<p>Emma glanced down at them and waved Annie away.</p>
<p>"Can't see them. Busy."</p>
<p>Annie stood her ground.</p>
<p>"Mr. Buck said you'd see 'em. They're waiting."</p>
<p>Emma picked up one of the cards. On it Buck had scribbled a single
word: "Movers." Mrs. T. A. Buck smiled. A little malicious gleam
came into her eyes.</p>
<p>"Show 'em in here, Annie," she commanded, with a wave of the huge
shears. "I'll teach 'em to interrupt me when I've got my hands in the
bluing-water."</p>
<p>She bent over the table again, measuring with her keen eye. When the
three were ushered in a moment later, she looked up briefly and nodded,
then bent over the table again. But in that brief moment she had the
three marked, indexed and pigeonholed. If one could have looked into
that lightning mind of hers, one would have found something like this:</p>
<p>"Hmm! What Ida Tarbell calls 'Restless women.' Money, and always have
had it. Those hats were born in one of those exclusive little shops
off the Avenue. Rich but somber. They think they're advanced, but
they still resent the triumph of the motor-car over the horse. That
girl can't call her soul her own. Good eyes, but too sad. He probably
didn't suit mother."</p>
<p>What she said was:</p>
<p>"Howdy-do. We're just bringing a new skirt into the world. I thought
you might like to be in at the birth."</p>
<p>"How very interesting!" chirped the two older women. The girl said
nothing, but a look of anticipation brightened her eyes. It deepened
and glowed as Emma McChesney Buck bent to her task and the great jaws
of the shears opened and shut on the virgin cloth. Six pairs of eyes
followed the fascinating steel before which the cloth rippled and fell
away, as water is cleft by the prow of a stanch little boat. Around
the curves went the shears, guided by Emma's firm white hands,
snipping, slashing, doubling on itself, a very swashbuckler of a shears.</p>
<p>"There!" exclaimed Emma at last, and dropped the shears on the table
with a clatter. "Put that together and see whether it makes a skirt or
not. Now, ladies!"</p>
<p>The three drew a long breath. It was the sort of sound that comes up
from the crowd when a sky-rocket has gone off successfully, with a
final shower of stars.</p>
<p>"Do you do that often?" ventured Mrs. Orton-Wells.</p>
<p>"Often enough to keep my hand in," replied Emma, and led the way to her
office.</p>
<p>The three followed in silence. They were strangely silent, too, as
they seated themselves around Emma Buck's desk. Curiously enough, it
was the subdued Miss Orton-Wells who was the first to speak.</p>
<p>"I'll never rest," she said, "until I see that skirt finished and
actually ready to wear."</p>
<p>She smiled at Emma. When she did that, you saw that Miss Orton-Wells
had her charm. Emma smiled back, and patted the girl's hand just once.
At that there came a look into Miss Orton-Wells' eyes, and you saw that
most decidedly she had her charm.</p>
<p>Up spoke Mrs. Orton-Wells.</p>
<p>"Gladys is such an enthusiast! That's really her reason for being
here. Gladys is very much interested in working girls. In fact, we
are all, as you probably know, intensely interested in the working
woman."</p>
<p>"Thank you!" said Emma McChesney Buck.</p>
<p>"That's very kind. We working women are very grateful to you."</p>
<p>"We!" exclaimed Mrs. Orton-Wells and Miss Susan Croft blankly, and in
perfect time.</p>
<p>Emma smiled sweetly.</p>
<p>"Surely you'll admit that I'm a working woman."</p>
<p>Miss Susan H. Croft was not a person to be trifled with. She
elucidated acidly.</p>
<p>"We mean women who work with their hands."</p>
<p>"By what power do you think those shears were moved across the
cutting-table? We don't cut our patterns with an ouija-board."</p>
<p>Mrs. Orton-Wells rustled protestingly.</p>
<p>"But, my dear Mrs. Buck, you know, we mean women of the Laboring Class."</p>
<p>"I'm in this place of business from nine to five, Monday to Saturday,
inclusive. If that doesn't make me a member of the laboring class I
don't want to belong."</p>
<p>It was here that Mrs. Orton-Wells showed herself a woman not to be
trifled with. She moved forward to the edge of her chair, fixed Emma
Buck with determined eyes, and swept into midstream, sails spread.</p>
<p>"Don't be frivolous, Mrs. Buck. We are here on a serious errand. It
ought to interest you vitally because of the position you occupy in the
world of business. We are launching a campaign against the
extravagant, ridiculous, and oftentimes indecent dress of the working
girl, with especial reference to the girl who works in garment
factories. They squander their earnings in costumes absurdly unfitted
to their station in life. Our plan is to influence them in the
direction of neatness, modesty, and economy in dress. At present each
tries to outdo the other in style and variety of costume. Their shoes
are high-heeled, cloth-topped, their blouses lacy and collarless, their
hats absurd. We propose a costume which shall be neat, becoming, and
appropriate. Not exactly a uniform, perhaps, but something with a
fixed idea in cut, color, and style. A corps of twelve young ladies
belonging to our best families has been chosen to speak to the shop
girls at noon meetings on the subject of good taste, health, and
morality in women's dress. My daughter Gladys is one of them. In this
way, we hope to convince them that simplicity, and practicality, and
neatness are the only proper notes in the costume of the working girl.
Occupying as you do a position unique in the business world, Mrs. Buck,
we expect much from your cooperation with us in this cause."</p>
<p>Emma McChesney Buck had been gazing at Mrs. Orton-Wells with an
intentness as flattering as it was unfeigned. But at the close of Mrs.
Orton-Wells' speech she was strangely silent. She glanced down at her
shoes. Now, Emma McChesney Buck had a weakness for smart shoes which
her slim, well-arched foot excused. Hers were what might be called
intelligent-looking feet. There was nothing thick, nothing clumsy,
nothing awkward about them. And Emma treated them with the
consideration they deserved. They were shod now, in a pair of slim,
aristocratic, and modish ties above which the grateful eye caught a
flashing glimpse of black-silk stocking. Then her eye traveled up her
smartly tailored skirt, up the bodice of that well-made and becoming
costume until her glance rested on her own shoulder and paused. Then
she looked up at Mrs. Orton-Wells. The eyes of Mrs. Orton-Wells, Miss
Susan H. Croft, and Miss Gladys Orton-Wells had, by some strange power
of magnetism, followed the path of Emma's eyes. They finished just one
second behind her, so that when she raised her eyes it was to encounter
theirs.</p>
<p>"I have explained," retorted Mrs. Orton-Wells, tartly, in reply to
nothing, seemingly, "that our problem is with the factory girl. She
represents a distinct and separate class."</p>
<p>Emma McChesney Buck nodded:</p>
<p>"I understand. Our girls are very young—eighteen, twenty, twenty-two.
At eighteen, or thereabouts, practical garments haven't the strong
appeal that you might think they have."</p>
<p>"They should have," insisted Mrs. Orton-Wells.</p>
<p>"Maybe," said Emma Buck gently. "But to me it seems just as reasonable
to argue that an apple tree has no right to wear pink-and-white
blossoms in the spring, so long as it is going to bear sober russets in
the autumn."</p>
<p>Miss Susan H. Croft rustled indignantly.</p>
<p>"Then you refuse to work with us? You will not consent to Miss
Orton-Wells' speaking to the girls in your shop this noon?"</p>
<p>Emma looked at Gladys Orton-Wells. Gladys was wearing black, and black
did not become her. It made her creamy skin sallow. Her suit was
severely tailored, and her hat was small and harshly outlined, and her
hair was drawn back from her face. All this, in spite of the fact that
Miss Orton-Wells was of the limp and fragile type, which demands
ruffles, fluffiness, flowing lines and frou-frou. Emma's glance at the
suppressed Gladys was as fleeting as it was keen, but it sufficed to
bring her to a decision. She pressed a buzzer at her desk.</p>
<p>"I shall be happy to have Miss Orton-Wells speak to the girls in our
shop this noon, and as often as she cares to speak. If she can
convince the girls that a—er—fixed idea in cut, color, and style is
the thing to be adopted by shop-workers I am perfectly willing that
they be convinced."</p>
<p>Then to Annie, who appeared in answer to the buzzer,</p>
<p>"Will you tell Sophy Kumpf to come here, please?"</p>
<p>Mrs. Orton-Wells beamed. The somber plumes in her correct hat bobbed
and dipped to Emma. The austere Miss Susan H. Croft unbent in a
nutcracker smile. Only Miss Gladys Orton-Wells remained silent,
thoughtful, unenthusiastic. Her eyes were on Emma's face.</p>
<p>A heavy, comfortable step sounded in the hall outside the office door.
Emma turned with a smile to the stout, motherly, red-cheeked woman who
entered, smoothing her coarse brown hair with work-roughened fingers.</p>
<p>Emma took one of those calloused hands in hers.</p>
<p>"Sophy, we need your advice. This is Mrs. Sophy Kumpf—Mrs.
Orton-Wells, Miss Susan H. Croft"—Sophy threw her a keen glance; she
knew that name—"and Miss Orton-Wells." Of the four, Sophy was the
most at ease.</p>
<p>"Pleased to meet you," said Sophy Kumpf.</p>
<p>The three bowed, but did not commit themselves. Emma, her hand still
on Sophy's, elaborated:</p>
<p>"Sophy Kumpf has been with the T. A. Buck Company for thirty years.
She could run this business single-handed, if she had to. She knows any
machine in the shop, can cut a pattern, keep books, run the entire
plant if necessary. If there's anything about petticoats that Sophy
doesn't know, it's because it hasn't been invented yet. Sophy was
sixteen when she came to Buck's. I've heard she was the prettiest and
best dressed girl in the shop."</p>
<p>"Oh, now, Mrs. Buck!" remonstrated Sophy.</p>
<p>Emma tried to frown as she surveyed Sophy's bright eyes, her rosy
cheeks, her broad bosom, her ample hips—all that made Sophy an object
to comfort and rest the eye.</p>
<p>"Don't dispute, Sophy. Sophy has educated her children, married them
off, and welcomed their children. She thinks that excuses her for
having been frivolous and extravagant at sixteen. But we know better,
don't we? I'm using you as a horrible example, Sophy."</p>
<p>Sophy turned affably to the listening three.</p>
<p>"Don't let her string you," she said, and winked one knowing eye.</p>
<p>Mrs. Orton-Wells stiffened. Miss Susan H. Croft congealed. But Miss
Gladys Orton-Wells smiled. And then Emma knew she was right.</p>
<p>"Sophy, who's the prettiest girl in our shop? And the best dressed?"</p>
<p>"Lily Bernstein," Sophy made prompt answer.</p>
<p>"Send her in to us, will you? And give her credit for lost time when
she comes back to the shop."</p>
<p>Sophy, with a last beamingly good-natured smile, withdrew. Five
minutes later, when Lily Bernstein entered the office, Sophy qualified
as a judge of beauty. Lily Bernstein was a tiger-lily—all browns and
golds and creams, all graciousness and warmth and lovely curves. As
she came into the room, Gladys Orton-Wells seemed as bloodless and pale
and ineffectual as a white moth beside a gorgeous tawny butterfly.</p>
<p>Emma presented the girl as formally as she had Sophy Kumpf. And Lily
Bernstein smiled upon them, and her teeth were as white and even as one
knew they would be before she smiled. Lily had taken off her
shop-apron. Her gown was blue serge, cheap in quality, flawless as to
cut and fit, and incredibly becoming. Above it, her vivid face glowed
like a golden rose.</p>
<p>"Lily," said Emma, "Miss Orton-Wells is going to speak to the girls
this noon. I thought you might help by telling her whatever she wants
to know about the girls' work and all that, and by making her feel at
home."</p>
<p>"Well, sure," said Lily, and smiled again her heart-warming smile.
"I'd love to."</p>
<p>"Miss Orton-Wells," went on Emma smoothly, "wants to speak to the girls
about clothes."</p>
<p>Lily looked again at Miss Orton-Wells, and she did not mean to be
cruel. Then she looked quickly at Emma, to detect a possible joke.
But Mrs. Buck's face bore no trace of a smile.</p>
<p>"Clothes!" repeated Lily. And a slow red mounted to Gladys
Orton-Wells' pale face. When Lily went out Sunday afternoons, she might
have passed for a millionaire's daughter if she hadn't been so well
dressed.</p>
<p>"Suppose you take Miss Orton-Wells into the shop," suggested Emma, "so
that she may have some idea of the size and character of our family
before she speaks to it. How long shall you want to speak?"</p>
<p>Miss Orton-Wells started nervously, stammered a little, stopped.</p>
<p>"Oh, ten minutes," said Mrs. Orton-Wells graciously.</p>
<p>"Five," said Gladys, quickly, and followed Lily Bernstein into the
workroom.</p>
<p>Mrs. Orton-Wells and Miss Susan H. Croft gazed after them.</p>
<p>"Rather attractive, that girl, in a coarse way," mused Mrs.
Orton-Wells. "If only we can teach them to avoid the cheap and tawdry.
If only we can train them to appreciate the finer things in life. Of
course, their life is peculiar. Their problems are not our problems;
their——"</p>
<p>"Their problems are just exactly our problems," interrupted Emma
crisply. "They use garlic instead of onion, and they don't bathe as
often as we do; but, then, perhaps we wouldn't either, if we hadn't
tubs and showers so handy."</p>
<p>In the shop, queer things were happening to Gladys Orton-Wells. At her
entrance into the big workroom, one hundred pairs of eyes had lifted,
dropped, and, in that one look, condemned her hat, suit, blouse, veil
and tout ensemble. When you are on piece-work you squander very little
time gazing at uplift visitors in the wrong kind of clothes.</p>
<p>Gladys Orton-Wells looked about the big, bright workroom. The noonday
sun streamed in from a dozen great windows. There seemed, somehow, to
be a look of content and capableness about those heads bent so busily
over the stitching.</p>
<p>"It looks—pleasant," said Gladys Orton-Wells.</p>
<p>"It ain't bad. Of course it's hard sitting all day. But I'd rather do
that than stand from eight to six behind a counter. And there's good
money in it."</p>
<p>Gladys Orton-Wells turned wistful eyes on friendly little Lily
Bernstein.</p>
<p>"I'd like to earn money," she said. "I'd like to work."</p>
<p>"Well, why don't you?" demanded Lily.</p>
<p>"Work's all the style this year. They're all doing it. Look at the
Vanderbilts and that Morgan girl, and the whole crowd. These days you
can't tell whether the girl at the machine next to you lives in the
Bronx or on Fifth Avenue."</p>
<p>"It must be wonderful to earn your own clothes."</p>
<p>"Believe me," laughed Lily Bernstein, "it ain't so wonderful when
you've had to do it all your life."</p>
<p>She studied the pale girl before her with brows thoughtfully knit.
Lily had met too many uplifters to be in awe of them. Besides, a
certain warm-hearted friendliness was hers for every one she met. So,
like the child she was, she spoke what was in her mind:</p>
<p>"Say, listen, dearie. I wouldn't wear black if I was you. And that
plain stuff—it don't suit you. I'm like that, too. There's some
things I can wear and others I look fierce in. I'd like you in one of
them big flat hats and a full skirt like you see in the ads, with lots
of ribbons and tag ends and bows on it. D'you know what I mean?"</p>
<p>"My mother was a Van Cleve," said Gladys drearily, as though that
explained everything. So it might have, to any but a Lily Bernstein.</p>
<p>Lily didn't know what a Van Cleve was, but she sensed it as a drawback.</p>
<p>"Don't you care. Everybody's folks have got something the matter with
'em. Especially when you're a girl. But if I was you, I'd go right
ahead and do what I wanted to."</p>
<p>In the doorway at the far end of the shop appeared Emma with her two
visitors. Mrs. Orton-Wells stopped and said something to a girl at a
machine, and her very posture and smile reeked of an offensive
kindliness, a condescending patronage.</p>
<p>Gladys Orton-Wells did a strange thing. She saw her mother coming
toward her. She put one hand on Lily Bernstein's arm and she spoke
hurriedly and in a little gasping voice.</p>
<p>"Listen! Would you—would you marry a man who hadn't any money to
speak of, and no sort of family, if you loved him, even if your mother
wouldn't—wouldn't——"</p>
<p>"Would I! Say, you go out to-morrow morning and buy yourself one of
them floppy hats and a lace waist over flesh-colored chiffon and get
married in it. Don't get it white, with your coloring. Get it kind of
cream. You're so grand and thin, this year's things will look lovely
on you."</p>
<p>A bell shrilled somewhere in the shop. A hundred machines stopped
their whirring. A hundred heads came up with a sigh of relief. Chairs
were pushed back, aprons unbuttoned.</p>
<p>Emma McChesney Buck stepped forward and raised a hand for attention.
The noise of a hundred tongues was stilled.</p>
<p>"Girls, Miss Gladys Orton-Wells is going to speak to you for five
minutes on the subject of dress. Will you give her your attention,
please. The five minutes will be added to your noon hour."</p>
<p>Gladys Orton-Wells looked down at her hands for one terrified moment,
then she threw her head up bravely. There was no lack of color in her
cheeks now. She stepped to the middle of the room.</p>
<p>"What I have to say won't take five minutes," she said, in her clear,
well-bred tones.</p>
<p>"You all dress so smartly, and I'm such a dowd, I just want to ask you
whether you think I ought to get blue, or that new shade of gray for a
traveling-suit."</p>
<p>And the shop, hardened to the eccentricities of noonday speakers, made
composed and ready answer:</p>
<p>"Oh, get blue; it's always good."</p>
<p>"Thank you," laughed Gladys Orton-Wells, and was off down the hall and
away, with never a backward glance at her gasping and outraged mother.</p>
<p>Emma McChesney Buck took Lily Bernstein's soft cheek between thumb and
forefinger and pinched it ever so fondly.</p>
<p>"I knew you'd do it, Judy O'Grady," she said.</p>
<p>"Judy O'Who?"</p>
<p>"O'Grady—a lady famous in history."</p>
<p>"Oh, now, quit your kiddin', Mrs. Buck!" said Lily Bernstein.</p>
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