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<h2> To Dr LEWIS. </h2>
<h3> DEAR LEWIS </h3>
<p>Your fable of the monkey and the pig, is what the Italians call ben
trovata: but I shall not repeat it to my apothecary, who is a proud
Scotchman, very thin skinned, and, for aught I know, may have his degree
in his pocket—A right Scotchman has always two strings to his bow,
and is in utrumque paratus—Certain it is, I have not 'scaped a
scouring; but, I believe, by means of that scouring, I have 'scaped
something worse, perhaps a tedious fit of the gout or rheumatism; for my
appetite began to flag, and I had certain croakings in the bowels, which
boded me no good—Nay, I am not yet quite free of these remembrances,
which warn me to be gone from this centre of infection—</p>
<p>What temptation can a man of my turn and temperament have, to live in a
place where every corner teems with fresh objects of detestation and
disgust? What kind of taste and organs must those people have, who really
prefer the adulterate enjoyments of the town to the genuine pleasures of a
country retreat? Most people, I know, are originally seduced by vanity,
ambition, and childish curiosity; which cannot be gratified, but in the
busy haunts of men: but, in the course of this gratification, their very
organs of sense are perverted, and they become habitually lost to every
relish of what is genuine and excellent in its own nature.</p>
<p>Shall I state the difference between my town grievances, and my country
comforts? At Brambleton-hall, I have elbow-room within doors, and breathe
a clear, elastic, salutary air—I enjoy refreshing sleep, which is
never disturbed by horrid noise, nor interrupted, but in a-morning, by the
sweet twitter of the martlet at my window—I drink the virgin lymph,
pure and chrystalline as it gushes from the rock, or the sparkling
beveridge, home-brewed from malt of my own making; or I indulge with
cyder, which my own orchard affords; or with claret of the best growth,
imported for my own use, by a correspondent on whose integrity I can
depend; my bread is sweet and nourishing, made from my own wheat, ground
in my own mill, and baked in my own oven; my table is, in a great measure,
furnished from my own ground; my five-year old mutton, fed on the fragrant
herbage of the mountains, that might vie with venison in juice and
flavour; my delicious veal, fattened with nothing but the mother's milk,
that fills the dish with gravy; my poultry from the barn-door, that never
knew confinement, but when they were at roost; my rabbits panting from the
warren; my game fresh from the moors; my trout and salmon struggling from
the stream; oysters from their native banks; and herrings, with other sea
fish, I can eat in four hours after they are taken—My sallads,
roots, and potherbs, my own garden yields in plenty and perfection; the
produce of the natural soil, prepared by moderate cultivation. The same
soil affords all the different fruits which England may call her own, so
that my dessert is every day fresh-gathered from the tree; my dairy flows
with nectarious tildes of milk and cream, from whence we derive abundance
of excellent butter, curds, and cheese; and the refuse fattens my pigs,
that are destined for hams and bacon—I go to bed betimes, and rise
with the sun—I make shift to pass the hours without weariness or
regret, and am not destitute of amusements within doors, when the weather
will not permit me to go abroad—I read, and chat, and play at
billiards, cards or back-gammon—Without doors, I superintend my
farm, and execute plans of improvements, the effects of which I enjoy with
unspeakable delight—Nor do I take less pleasure in seeing my tenants
thrive under my auspices, and the poor live comfortably by the employment
which I provide—You know I have one or two sensible friends, to whom
I can open all my heart; a blessing which, perhaps, I might have sought in
vain among the crowded scenes of life: there are a few others of more
humble parts, whom I esteem for their integrity; and their conversation I
find inoffensive, though not very entertaining. Finally, I live in the
midst of honest men, and trusty dependents, who, I flatter myself, have a
disinterested attachment to my person. You, yourself, my dear Doctor, can
vouch for the truth of these assertions.</p>
<p>Now, mark the contrast at London—I am pent up in frowzy lodgings,
where there is not room enough to swing a cat; and I breathe the steams of
endless putrefaction; and these would, undoubtedly, produce a pestilence,
if they were not qualified by the gross acid of sea-coal, which is itself
a pernicious nuisance to lungs of any delicacy of texture: but even this
boasted corrector cannot prevent those languid, sallow looks, that
distinguish the inhabitants of London from those ruddy swains that lead a
country-life—I go to bed after midnight, jaded and restless from the
dissipations of the day—I start every hour from my sleep, at the
horrid noise of the watchmen bawling the hour through every street, and
thundering at every door; a set of useless fellows, who serve no other
purpose but that of disturbing the repose of the inhabitants; and by five
o'clock I start out of bed, in consequence of the still more dreadful
alarm made by the country carts, and noisy rustics bellowing green pease
under my window. If I would drink water, I must quaff the maukish contents
of an open aqueduct, exposed to all manner of defilement; or swallow that
which comes from the river Thames, impregnated with all the filth of
London and Westminster—Human excrement is the least offensive part
of the concrete, which is composed of all the drugs, minerals, and
poisons, used in mechanics and manufacture, enriched with the putrefying
carcasses of beasts and men; and mixed with the scourings of all the
wash-tubs, kennels, and common sewers, within the bills of mortality.</p>
<p>This is the agreeable potation, extolled by the Londoners, as the finest
water in the universe—As to the intoxicating potion, sold for wine,
it is a vile, unpalatable, and pernicious sophistication, balderdashed
with cyder, corn-spirit, and the juice of sloes. In an action at law, laid
against a carman for having staved a cask of port, it appeared from the
evidence of the cooper, that there were not above five gallons of real
wine in the whole pipe, which held above a hundred, and even that had been
brewed and adulterated by the merchant at Oporto. The bread I cat in
London, is a deleterious paste, mixed up with chalk, alum, and bone-ashes;
insipid to the taste, and destructive to the constitution. The good people
are not ignorant of this adulteration—but they prefer it to
wholesome bread, because it is whiter than the meal of corn: thus they
sacrifice their taste and their health, and the lives of their tender
infants, to a most absurd gratification of a mis-judging eye; and the
miller, or the baker, is obliged to poison them and their families, in
order to live by his profession. The same monstrous depravity appears in
their veal, which is bleached by repeated bleedings, and other villainous
arts, till there is not a drop of juice left in the body, and the poor
animal is paralytic before it dies; so void of all taste, nourishment, and
savour, that a man might dine as comfortably on a white fricassee of
kid-skin gloves; or chip hats from Leghorn.</p>
<p>As they have discharged the natural colour from their bread, their
butchers-meat, and poultry, their cutlets, ragouts, fricassees and sauces
of all kinds; so they insist upon having the complexion of their potherbs
mended, even at the hazard of their lives. Perhaps, you will hardly
believe they can be so mad as to boil their greens with brass halfpence,
in order to improve their colour; and yet nothing is more true—Indeed,
without this improvement in the colour, they have no personal merit. They
are produced in an artificial soil, and taste of nothing but the
dunghills, from whence they spring. My cabbage, cauliflower, and 'sparagus
in the country, are as much superior in flavour to those that are sold in
Covent-garden, as my heath-mutton is to that of St James's-market; which
in fact, is neither lamb nor mutton, but something betwixt the two, gorged
in the rank fens of Lincoln and Essex, pale, coarse, and frowzy—As
for the pork, it is an abominable carnivorous animal, fed with horse-flesh
and distillers' grains; and the poultry is all rotten, in consequence of a
fever, occasioned by the infamous practice of sewing up the gut, that they
may be the sooner fattened in coops, in consequence of this cruel
retention.</p>
<p>Of the fish, I need say nothing in this hot weather, but that it comes
sixty, seventy, fourscore, and a hundred miles by land-carriage; a
circumstance sufficient without any comment, to turn a Dutchman's stomach,
even if his nose was not saluted in every alley with the sweet flavour of
fresh mackarel, selling by retail. This is not the season for oysters;
nevertheless, it may not be amiss to mention, that the right Colchester
are kept in slime-pits, occasionally overflowed by the sea; and that the
green colour, so much admired by the voluptuaries of this metropolis, is
occasioned by the vitriolic scum, which rises on the surface of the
stagnant and stinking water—Our rabbits are bred and fed in the
poulterer's cellar, where they have neither air nor exercise, consequently
they must be firm in flesh, and delicious in flavour; and there is no game
to be had for love or money.</p>
<p>It must be owned, the Covent-garden affords some good fruit; which,
however, is always engrossed by a few individuals of overgrown fortune, at
an exorbitant price; so that little else than the refuse of the market
falls to the share of the community; and that is distributed by such
filthy hands, as I cannot look at without loathing. It was but yesterday
that I saw a dirty barrow-bunter in the street, cleaning her dusty fruit
with her own spittle; and, who knows but some fine lady of St James's
parish might admit into her delicate mouth those very cherries, which had
been rolled and moistened between the filthy, and, perhaps, ulcerated
chops of a St Giles's huckster—I need not dwell upon the pallid,
contaminated mash, which they call strawberries; soiled and tossed by
greasy paws through twenty baskets crusted with dirt; and then presented
with the worst milk, thickened with the worst flour, into a bad likeness
of cream: but the milk itself should not pass unanalysed, the produce of
faded cabbage-leaves and sour draff, lowered with hot water, frothed with
bruised snails, carried through the streets in open pails, exposed to foul
rinsings, discharged from doors and windows, spittle, snot, and
tobacco-quids from foot passengers, overflowings from mud carts,
spatterings from coach wheels, dirt and trash chucked into it by roguish
boys for the joke's sake, the spewings of infants, who have slabbered in
the tin-measure, which is thrown back in that condition among the milk,
for the benefit of the next customer; and, finally, the vermin that drops
from the rags of the nasty drab that vends this precious mixture, under
the respectable denomination of milk-maid.</p>
<p>I shall conclude this catalogue of London dainties, with that table-beer,
guiltless of hops and malt, vapid and nauseous; much fitter to facilitate
the operation of a vomit, than to quench thirst and promote digestion; the
tallowy rancid mass, called butter, manufactured with candle grease and
kitchen stuff; and their fresh eggs, imported from France and Scotland.—Now,
all these enormities might be remedied with a very little attention to the
article of police, or civil regulation; but the wise patriots of London
have taken it into their heads, that all regulation is inconsistent with
liberty; and that every man ought to live in his own way, without
restraint—Nay, as there is not sense enough left among them, to be
discomposed by the nuisance I have mentioned, they may, for aught I care,
wallow in the mire of their own pollution.</p>
<p>A companionable man will, undoubtedly put up with many inconveniences for
the sake of enjoying agreeable society. A facetious friend of mine used to
say, the wine could not be bad, where the company was agreeable; a maxim
which, however, ought to be taken cum grano salis: but what is the society
of London, that I should be tempted, for its sake, to mortify my senses,
and compound with such uncleanness as my soul abhors? All the people I
see, are too much engrossed by schemes of interest or ambition, to have
any room left for sentiment or friendship. Even in some of my old
acquaintance, those schemes and pursuits have obliterated all traces of
our former connexion—Conversation is reduced to party disputes, and
illiberal altercation—Social commerce, to formal visits and
card-playing—If you pick up a diverting original by accident, it may
be dangerous to amuse yourself with his oddities—He is generally a
tartar at bottom; a sharper, a spy, or a lunatic. Every person you deal
with endeavours to overreach you in the way of business; you are preyed
upon by idle mendicants, who beg in the phrase of borrowing, and live upon
the spoils of the stranger—Your tradesmen are without conscience,
your friends without affection, and your dependents without fidelity.—</p>
<p>My letter would swell into a treatise, were I to particularize every cause
of offence that fills up the measure of my aversion to this, and every
other crowded city—Thank Heaven! I am not so far sucked into the
vortex, but that I can disengage myself without any great effort of
philosophy—From this wild uproar of knavery, folly, and
impertinence, I shall fly with double relish to the serenity of
retirement, the cordial effusions of unreserved friendship, the
hospitality and protection of the rural gods; in a word, the jucunda
oblivia Vitae, which Horace himself had not taste enough to enjoy.—</p>
<p>I have agreed for a good travelling-coach and four, at a guinea a day, for
three months certain; and next week we intend to begin our journey to the
North, hoping still to be with you by the latter end of October—I
shall continue to write from every stage where we make any considerable
halt, as often as anything occurs, which I think can afford you the least
amusement. In the mean time, I must beg you will superintend the oeconomy
of Barns, with respect to my hay and corn harvests; assured that my ground
produces nothing but what you may freely call your own—On any other
terms I should be ashamed to subscribe myself</p>
<p>Your unvariable friend, MATT. BRAMBLE LONDON, June 8.</p>
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