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<h2> To Miss LAETITIA WILLIS, at Gloucester. </h2>
<h3> MY DEAR LETTY, </h3>
<p>Inexpressible was the pleasure I received from yours of the 25th, which
was last night put into my hands by Mrs Brentford, the milliner, from
Gloucester—I rejoice to hear that my worthy governess is in good
health, and, still more, that she no longer retains any displeasure
towards her poor Liddy. I am sorry you have lost the society of the
agreeable Miss Vaughn; but, I hope you won't have cause much longer to
regret the departure of your school companions, as I make no doubt but
your parents will, in a little time, bring you into the world, where you
are so well qualified to make a distinguished figure. When that is the
case, I flatter myself you and I shall meet again, and be happy together;
and even improve the friendship which we contracted in our tender years.
This at least I can promise—It shall not be for the want of my
utmost endeavours, if our intimacy does not continue for life.</p>
<p>About five days ago we arrived in London, after an easy journey from Bath;
during which, however, we were overturned, and met with some other little
incidents, which, had like to have occasioned a misunderstanding betwixt
my uncle and aunt; but now, thank God, they are happily reconciled: we
live in harmony together, and every day make parties to see the wonders of
this vast metropolis, which, however, I cannot pretend to describe; for I
have not as yet seen one hundredth part of its curiosities, and I am quite
in a maze of admiration.</p>
<p>The cities of London and Westminster are spread out into an incredible
extent. The streets, squares, rows, lanes, and alleys, are innumerable.
Palaces, public buildings, and churches rise in every quarter; and, among
these last, St Paul's appears with the most astonishing pre-eminence. They
say it is not so large as, St Peter's at Rome; but, for my own part, I can
have no idea of any earthly temple more grand and magnificent.</p>
<p>But even these superb objects are not so striking as the crowds of people
that swarm in the streets. I at first imagined that some great assembly
was just dismissed, and wanted to stand aside till the multitude should
pass; but this human tide continues to flow, without interruption or
abatement, from morn till night. Then there is such an infinity of gay
equipages, coaches, chariots, chaises, and other carriages, continually
rolling and shifting before your eyes, that one's head grows giddy looking
at them; and the imagination is quite confounded with splendour and
variety. Nor is the prospect by water less grand and astonishing than that
by land: you see three stupendous bridges, joining the opposite banks of a
broad, deep, and rapid river; so vast, so stately, so elegant, that they
seem to be the work of the giants; betwixt them, the whole surface of the
Thames is covered with small vessels, barges, boats, and wherries, passing
to and fro; and below the three bridges, such a prodigious forest of
masts, for miles together, that you would think all the ships in the
universe were here assembled. All that you read of wealth and grandeur in
the Arabian Nights' Entertainment, and the Persian Tales, concerning
Bagdad, Diarbekir, Damascus, Ispahan, and Samarkand, is here realized.</p>
<p>Ranelagh looks like the inchanted palace of a genie, adorned with the most
exquisite performances of painting, carving, and gilding, enlightened with
a thousand golden lamps, that emulate the noon-day sun; crowded with the
great, the rich, the gay, the happy, and the fair; glittering with cloth
of gold and silver, lace, embroidery, and precious stones. While these
exulting sons and daughters of felicity tread this round of pleasure, or
regale in different parties, and separate lodges, with fine imperial tea
and other delicious refreshments, their ears are entertained with the most
ravishing delights of music, both instrumental and vocal. There I heard
the famous Tenducci, a thing from Italy—It looks for all the world
like a man, though they say it is not. The voice, to be sure, is neither
man's nor woman's; but it is more melodious than either; and it warbled so
divinely, that, while I listened, I really thought myself in paradise.</p>
<p>At nine o'clock, in a charming moonlight evening, we embarked at Ranelagh
for Vauxhall, in a wherry so light and slender that we looked like so many
fairies sailing in a nutshell. My uncle, being apprehensive of catching
cold upon the water, went round in the coach, and my aunt would have
accompanied him, but he would not suffer me to go by water if she went by
land; and therefore she favoured us with her company, as she perceived I
had a curiosity to make this agreeable voyage—After all, the vessel
was sufficiently loaded; for, besides the waterman, there was my brother
Jery, and a friend of his, one Mr Barton, a country gentleman, of a good
fortune, who had dined at our house—The pleasure of this little
excursion was, however, damped, by my being sadly frighted at our landing;
where there was a terrible confusion of wherries and a crowd of people
bawling, and swearing, and quarrelling, nay, a parcel of ugly-looking
fellows came running into the water, and laid hold of our boat with great
violence, to pull it a-shore; nor would they quit their hold till my
brother struck one of them over the head with his cane. But this flutter
was fully recompensed by the pleasures of Vauxhall; which I no sooner
entered, than I was dazzled and confounded with the variety of beauties
that rushed all at once upon my eye. Image to yourself, my dear Letty, a
spacious garden, part laid out in delightful walks, bounded with high
hedges and trees, and paved with gravel; part exhibiting a wonderful
assemblage of the most picturesque and striking objects' pavilions,
lodges, groves, grottoes, lawns, temples and cascades; porticoes,
colonades, and rotundos; adorned with pillars, statues, and painting: the
whole illuminated with an infinite number of lamps, disposed in different
figures of suns, stars, and constellations; the place crowded with the
gayest company, ranging through those blissful shades, or supping in
different lodges on cold collations, enlivened with mirth, freedom, and
good humour, and animated by an excellent band of music. Among the vocal
performers I had the happiness to hear the celebrated Mrs—, whose
voice was loud and shrill, that it made my head ake through excess of
pleasure.</p>
<p>In about half an hour after we arrived we were joined by my uncle, who did
not seem to relish the place. People of experience and infirmity, my dear
Letty, see with very different eyes from those that such as you and I make
use of—Our evening's entertainment was interrupted by an unlucky
accident. In one of the remotest walks we were surprised with a sudden
shower, that set the whole company a-running, and drove us in heaps, one
upon another, into the rotunda; where my uncle, finding himself wet, began
to be very peevish and urgent to be gone. My brother went to look for the
coach, and found it with much difficulty; but as it could not hold us all,
Mr Barton stayed behind. It was some time before the carriage could be
brought up to the gate, in the confusion, notwithstanding the utmost
endeavours of our new footman, Humphry Clinker, who lost his scratch
periwig, and got a broken head in the scuffle. The moment we were seated,
my aunt pulled off my uncle's shoes, and carefully wrapped his poor feet
in her capuchin; then she gave him a mouth-ful of cordial, which she
always keeps in her pocket, and his clothes were shifted as soon as we
arrived at lodgings; so that, blessed be God, he escaped a severe cold, of
which he was in great terror.</p>
<p>As for Mr Barton, I must tell you in confidence, he was a little
particular; but, perhaps, I mistake his complaisance; and I wish I may,
for his sake—You know the condition of my poor heart: which, in
spite of hard usage—And yet I ought not to complain: nor will I,
till farther information.</p>
<p>Besides Ranelagh and Vauxhall, I have been at Mrs Cornelys' assembly,
which, for the rooms, the company, the dresses, and decorations, surpasses
all description; but as I have no great turn for card playing, I have not
yet entered thoroughly into the spirit of the place: indeed I am still
such a country hoyden, that I could hardly find patience to be put in a
condition to appear, yet, as I was not above six hours under the hands of
the hair-dresser, who stuffed my head with as much black wool as would
have made a quilted petticoat; and, after all, it was the smallest head in
the assembly, except my aunt's—She, to be sure, was so particular
with her rumpt gown and petticoat, her scanty curls, her lappethead, deep
triple ruffles, and high stays, that every body looked at her with
surprise: some whispered, and some tittered; and lady Griskin, by whom we
were introduced, flatly told her, she was twenty good years behind the
fashion.</p>
<p>Lady Griskin is a person of fashion, to whom we have the honour to be
related. She keeps a small rout at her own house, never exceeding ten or a
dozen card-tables, but these are frequented by the best company in town—She
has been so obliging as to introduce my aunt and me to some of her
particular friends of quality, who treat us with the most familiar
good-humour: we have once dined with her, and she takes the trouble to
direct us in all our motions. I am so happy as to have gained her goodwill
to such a degree, that she sometimes adjusts my cap with her own hands;
and she has given me a kind invitation to stay with her all the winter.
This, however, has been cruelly declined by my uncle who seems to be (I
know not how) prejudiced against the good lady; for, whenever my aunt
happens to speak in her commendation, I observe that he makes wry faces,
though he says nothing—Perhaps, indeed, these grimaces may be the
effect of pain arising from the gout and rheumatism, with which he is
sadly distressed—To me, however, he is always good-natured and
generous, even beyond my wish. Since we came hither, he has made me a
present of a suit of clothes, with trimmings and laces, which cost more
money than I shall mention; and Jery, at his desire, has given me my
mother's diamond crops, which are ordered to be set a-new; so that it
won't be his fault if I do not glitter among the stars of the fourth or
fifth magnitude. I wish my weak head may not grow giddy in the midst of
all this gallantry and dissipation; though, as yet, I can safely declare,
I could gladly give up all these tumultuous pleasures, for country
solitude, and a happy retreat with those we love; among whom, my dear
Willis will always possess the first place in the breast of her</p>
<p>Ever affectionate, LYDIA MELFORD LONDON, May 31.</p>
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