<h3><SPAN name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></SPAN>CHAPTER IV</h3>
<h4>SOME HISTORICAL FACTS ABOUT OMAN</h4>
<p>On two separate occasions we visited Maskat. The first
time was in 1889 on our way to Persia, and the second in
1895 when we were starting for Dhofar, on the journey
which I shall describe later.</p>
<p>On each occasion we had to reach it by way of India, for
like all the rest of the Persian Gulf Maskat is really an
outlying portion of our Indian Empire. By just crossing
a range of mountains in Persia you cross the metaphorical
watershed between our India and Foreign Offices. At
Shiraz you hesitate between India and England. You ask
the question, 'Shall I send my letters <i>viâ</i> Bombay, or <i>viâ</i>
Russia?' You hasten to get rid of your rupees, for this is
the last place where their merit is recognised. North of
Shiraz you are in a distinctly foreign country. Our officials
hail from the Foreign Office and belong to the legation of
Teheran. You are no longer under British protection, you
are in the dominions of the Shah.</p>
<p>But so long as you are on the shores of the Gulf you
are, so to speak, in India. The officials receive their pay in
degenerate rupees instead of pounds sterling, they live in
'bungalows,' they talk of 'tiffin,' and eat curry at every
meal.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/46.png">46</SPAN>]</span></p>
<p>We keep a British ship of war in the Gulf. We feel
that it is a matter of the first importance that those countries
should remain under our protection, and that the Turks should
not build forts at Fao and otherwise interfere with our trade
in the Karoun, and that no other power should have a foothold
thereon. The last generation talked much about a
Euphrates Valley Railway, with its terminus at Koweit; we
now hear a great deal about the opening up of the Karoun,
but it is the lordship of the Gulf which is the chief matter
of importance just at present both for India and for ourselves.</p>
<p>In this district Maskat is the most important point;
the kingdom of Oman, of which it is nominally the capital,
commands the entrance to the Gulf. In the ninth century
of the Christian era ships trading from Sherif to China took
in water at Maskat from the wells which still supply the
town. Between Aden and the Persian Gulf it is the only
harbour where ships of any size can find anchorage, and it
may, in fact, be said to play much the same part with
respect to the Persian Gulf that Aden does to the Red Sea.
In many other ways the places are strikingly similar. They
are both constructed on arid, volcanic rocks, which produce
the smallest amount of verdure and reflect the greatest
amount of heat; water in both of them is the scarcest of
commodities. Of all places in the world Maskat has the
reputation of being the hottest, facing, as it does, the Indian
Ocean, and protected from every cooling breeze by rugged
volcanic hills, without a blade of cultivation upon them, and
which reflect and intensify the scorching rays of the burning
sun. Aden is said to have but a piece of brown paper
between it and the infernal fires. Maskat would seem to
want even this meagre protection, and 'gives,' as a Persian
poet has expressed it, 'to the panting sinner a lively anticipation
of his future destiny.'<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/47.png">47</SPAN>]</span></p>
<p>The approach to the cove of Maskat is highly striking.
Many-coloured volcanic rocks of fantastic form protect
the horseshoe-shaped harbour, whilst behind the white
town, as far as the eye can reach, stretch deeply serrated, arid
mountains, which culminate in the heights of Jebel Akhdar,
or the 'Green Mountains,' some fifty miles, as the crow flies,
inland, reaching an elevation of 9,000 feet. We were told
that snow sometimes falls in the winter-time on Jebel
Akhdar, and it rejoices in a certain amount of verdure, from
which it derives its name. This range forms the backbone
of Oman, and at its foot lie Nezweh and Rostok, the old
capitals of the long line of imams of Oman, before Maskat
was a place of so much importance as it is at present. The
streams which come down from these mountains nowhere
reach the sea, but are lost in the deserts, and, nevertheless,
in some places they fertilise oases in the Omani desert, where
the vegetation is most luxuriant and fever very rife. Grapes
grow on the slopes of Jebel Akhdar, and the inhabitants,
despite the strictures of Mohammed, both make and drink
wine of them, and report says (how far it is true I know
not) that the Portuguese exported thence the vines to
which they gave the name of muscatel. The inhabitants
of this wild range are chiefly Bedou and pastoral, and it is
from this quarter that the troubles which beset the poor
sultan, Feysul, generally emanate.</p>
<p>The harbour of Maskat is full of life. The deep blue sea
is studded with tiny craft: canoes painted red, green, and
white, steered by paddles, swarm around the steamer;
fishermen paddling themselves about on a plank or two tied
together, or swimming astride of a single one, hawk their
wares from boat to boat. The oars of the larger boats are
generally made with a flat circular piece of wood fastened on
to a long pole, and are really more like paddles than oars.
In the northern corner lie huddled together large dhows,<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/48.png">48</SPAN>]</span>
which, during the north-east monsoons, make the journey
to Zanzibar, returning at the change of the season. Most of
these belong to Banyan merchants in Maskat, and are
manned by Indian sailors. Close to them is the small
steamer <i>Sultanieh</i>, which was presented by the Sultan of
Zanzibar to his cousin Sultan Tourki of Maskat, now a perfectly
useless craft, which cannot even venture outside the
harbour by reason of the holes in its side. From its mast
floats the red banner of Oman, the same flag that Arab
boats at Aden fly. It was originally the banner of Yemen,
to which place the Arabs who rule in Oman trace their
origin; for early in our era, according to Arab tradition,
Oman was colonised and taken possession of by descendants
of the old Himyarites of Yemen.</p>
<p>The shore of the town is very unpleasant, reeking with
smells, and at low tide lined with all the refuse and offal of
the place. At high tide shoals of fish come in to feed on this
refuse, and in their train follow immense flocks of seagulls,
which make the edge of the water quite white as they fly
along and dive after their prey. Here and there out of the
sand peep the barrels of some rusty old cannon, ghostly
relics of the Portuguese occupation.</p>
<p>In the middle of the beach is the sultan's palace, but it
is immeasurably inferior to the new residency of the British
political agent, which stands at the southern extremity of the
town, just where it can get all the breeze that is to be had
through a gap in the rocks opening to the south; here we
were most hospitably entertained by Colonel Hayes Sadler
on our second sojourn. Even in this favoured position the
heat in summer is almost unendurable, making Maskat one
of the least coveted posts that the Indian Government
has at its disposal. The cliffs immediately round the town
are of a shiny schist, almost impossible to walk upon, and
reflect the rays of the sun with great intensity.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/49.png">49</SPAN>]</span></p>
<p>On either side of the town stand two old Portuguese
forts kept up and manned by the sultan's soldiers; in them
are still to be seen old rusty pieces of ordnance, one of which
bears a Portuguese inscription with the date 1606, and the
name and arms of Philip III. of Spain; also the small Portuguese
chapel in the fort is preserved and bears the date of
1588. These are the principal legacies left to posterity by
those intrepid pioneers of civilisation in a spot which they
occupied for nearly a century and a half. These forts
testify to having been of great size and strength in former
times, and show considerable architectural features, and the
traces of a luxuriant and opulent population.</p>
<p>With regard to the ancient history of Oman, there is
little known. The empire of the Himyarites, which filled
Yemen and the Hadhramout valley with interesting remains,
does not appear to have extended its sway so far eastward;
no Sabæan remains have as yet been found in Oman, nor are
there any that I have heard of further east than the frankincense
country of Dhofar, over six hundred miles west of
Maskat. Neither Ptolemy nor the author of the 'Periplus'
gives us any definite information about the existence of a
town in the harbour of Maskat, and consequently the first
reliable information we have to go upon is from the early
Arabian geographers.</p>
<p>From Torisi we learn that Sobar was the most ancient
town of Oman; but that in his day Maskat was flourishing,
and that 'in old times the China ships used to sail from
there.'</p>
<p>Oman was included in Yemen by these earlier geographers,
doubtless from the fact that Arabs from Yemen
were its first colonisers; but all that is known with any
certainty is that, from the ninth century <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> a long line of
imams ruled over Oman, with their capitals at Nezweh or
Rostok, at the foot of Jebel Akhdar. This title, by which<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/50.png">50</SPAN>]</span>
the Arab rulers were known, had been conferred on the
Arab rulers of Oman for centuries, and signifies a sort of
priest-king, like Melchisedek, to whom, curiously enough, is
given the same title in the Koran. The election was always
by popular acclamation, and inasmuch as the Omani do
not recognise the two 'imams' who immediately succeeded
Mohammed, but chose their own, they form a separate sect.
In olden days the men of Oman were called 'outsiders'
by their Mohammedan brethren, because they recognised
their own chief solely as the head of their own religion, and
are known otherwise as the Ibadiet or Ibadhuyah, followers
of Abdullah-bin-Ibadh, as distinct from the Shiahi (Shiites)
and Sunni, between which sects the rest of Islam is pretty
equally divided. Internecine wars were always rife amongst
them; but, at the same time, these early Omani had little
or no intercourse with the outer world. Of the internal
quarrels of the country, the Omani historian Salid-bin-Ragik
has given a detailed account, but for the rest of the world
they are of little interest. In those days Oman seems to
have had two ports, Sur and Kalhat, on the Indian Ocean,
which were more frequented than Maskat. Marco Polo,
1280 <span class="smcap">a.d.</span>, calls the second Calaiati in his 'Journal,' and
describes it as 'a large city in a gulf called, also, Calatu,' and
the Omani paid tribute to the melek or king of Hormuz for
many generations, but with the rise of Maskat, Sur and
Kalhat declined.</p>
<p>Oman first came into immediate contact with Europeans
in the year 1506, when Albuquerque appeared in Maskat
harbour bent on his conquest of the Persian Gulf, and with
the object, not even yet accomplished, of making a route to
India by way of the Euphrates valley. From Albuquerque's
'Commentaries' we get a graphic description of the condition
of the country when he reached it.</p>
<p>At first the Arabs were inclined to receive the Portu<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/51.png">51</SPAN>]</span>guese
without a struggle; but, taking courage from the
presence of a large army of Bedouin in the vicinity, they
soon showed treacherous intentions towards the invaders,
so that the Portuguese admiral determined to attack the
town and destroy it, and the commentator states that
'within were burned many provisions, thirty-four ships in
all, large and small, many fishing barks, and an arsenal full
of every requisite for ship-building.'</p>
<p>After effecting a landing, the Portuguese ordered 'three
gunners with axes to cut the supports of the mosque, which
was a large and very beautiful edifice, the greater part being
built of timber finely carved, and the upper part of stucco,'
and it was accounted a propitious miracle by the Portuguese
that the men who performed this deed were not killed by
the falling timber. Maskat was then burnt and utterly
destroyed; and 'having cut off the ears and noses of the
prisoners he liberated them.' The commentator concludes
his remarks on Maskat as follows: 'Maskat is of old a
market for carriage of horses and dates; it is a very elegant
town, with very fine houses. It is the principal <i>entrepôt</i>
of the kingdom of Ormuz, into which all the ships that
navigate these parts must of necessity enter.'</p>
<p>The hundred and forty years during which the Portuguese
occupied Maskat and the adjacent coast town was a
period of perpetual trouble and insurrection. The factory
and forts of Jellali and Merani were commenced in 1527,
but the forts in their present condition were not erected till
after the union of Portugal and Spain, in 1580; the order
for their erection came from Madrid, and the inscription
bears the date 1588. Not only were the Arabs constantly
on the look-out to dislodge their unwelcome visitors, but the
Turks attacked them likewise, with a navy from the side
of the Persian Gulf, and the naval victory gained by the
Portuguese off Maskat in 1554 is considered by Turkish<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/52.png">52</SPAN>]</span>
historians to have been a greater blow to their power than
the better known battle off Prevesa in 1538, when D'Oria
defeated Barbarossa and obliged Solyman to relinquish his
attempt on Vienna.</p>
<p>When, after the union of Portugal with Spain, the
colonial activity of the former country declined, the colonies
in the Persian Gulf fell one by one into the hand of the
Persians and Arabs.</p>
<p>Out of the kingdom of Oman they were driven in 1620,
and confined to the town of Maskat by the victorious imam,
Nasir-bin-Murshid, during whose reign of twenty-six years
the legend is told that no man in Oman died a natural
death. Two years later they were also driven from Maskat
itself, and those two forts Jellali and Merani which they had
built, the last foothold of the Portuguese on the Omani
territory, were taken from them.</p>
<p>The historian Salil tells the amusing story of the final fall
of Maskat into the hands of the Arabs. The Portuguese
governor, Pereira, was deeply enamoured of the daughter
of a Banyan merchant of Maskat; the man at first refused
to let him have his daughter, but at length consented, on
condition that the wedding did not take place for some
months. Pereira was now entirely in the hands of the
Banyan and did everything he told him; so the crafty
Indian communicated with the Arabs outside Portuguese
territory, telling them to be ready when due notice was
given to attack the town. He then proceeded to persuade
Pereira to clean out the water tanks of the fort, and
to clear out the old supplies of food preparatory to revictualling
them; then, when the forts were without
food and water, and finally having damped all the powder,
he gave notice to the Arabs, who attacked and took the
town on a Sunday evening, when the Portuguese were
carousing.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/53.png">53</SPAN>]</span></p>
<p>Captain Hamilton gives another account in his travels,<SPAN name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></SPAN><SPAN href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</SPAN>
and tells us that the Arabs were exasperated by a piece of
pork, wrapped up in paper, being sent as a present to the
imam by the governor, Pereira, and he also adds that the
Portuguese were all put to the sword, save eighteen, who
embraced Mohammedanism; and that the Portuguese
cathedral was made the imam's palace, where he took up
his residence for a month or two every year.</p>
<p>Since those days these two forts have been regularly
used by rival claimants to the sovereignty of Oman as
convenient points of vantage from which to pepper one
another, to the infinite discomfiture of the inhabitants
beneath.</p>
<p>The departure of the Portuguese did not greatly benefit
the Omani. Writing in 1624 to the East India Company,
Thomas Kerridge speaks of Maskat as 'a beggarly, poor
town,' and 'Ormusz,' he says, 'is become a heap of ruins.'
At last, in 1737, owing to the jealousies of the rival imams,
Seid and Ibn Murshad, Maskat was taken by the Persians.
They were, however, soon driven out again by Ahmed-bin-Sayid,
or Saoud, a man of humble origin but a successful
general; as a reward for his services he was elected imam
in 1741, and was the founder of the dynasty which still rules
there.</p>
<p>The successors of Ahmed-bin-Sayid found the obligations
of being imam, and the oath which it entailed to fight against
the infidel, both awkward and irksome, so his grandson,
Saoud, who succeeded in 1779, never assumed the title
of imam, but was content with that of sultan, and
consequently the imamate of Oman has, with one short
exception, been in abeyance ever since.</p>
<p>Under the first rulers of this dynasty Oman became a
state of considerable importance. During the reigns of<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/54.png">54</SPAN>]</span>
Sultan Saoud and his son Sultan Saoud Sayid, a large part
of the Arabian mainland was under the rule of Oman, as also
Bahrein, Hormuz, Larij, Kishm, Bandar Abbas, many islands
and their pearl fisheries, and Linga, also a good part of the
coast of Africa; and it was they who established the alliances
with England and the United States.</p>
<p>The first political relations between the East India
Company and the ruler of Oman took place in 1798, the
object being to secure the alliance of Oman against the
Dutch and French. A second treaty was made two years
later, and it was provided in it that 'an English gentleman
of respectability on the part of the Honourable East India
Company, should always reside at the port of Maskat.'</p>
<p>An English gentleman of respectability has consequently
resided there ever since, and from the days of Sultan Sayid
has become the chief factor in the government of the place.</p>
<p>Sultan Sayid-bin-Sayid stands out prominently as the
great ruler of Oman, and under his rule Oman and its capital,
Maskat, reached the greatest pitch of eminence to be found
in all its annals. He ascended the throne in 1804, and
reigned for fifty-two years.</p>
<p>He found his country in dire distress at the time of his
accession, owing to the attacks of the fanatical Wahabi from
Central Arabia, who had carried their victorious arms right
down to Maskat, and had imposed their bigoted rules and
religious regulations on the otherwise liberal-minded Mohammedans
of Eastern Arabia. With Turkish aid on the one hand,
and British support on the other, Sultan Sayid succeeded in
relieving his country from these terrible scourges, and drove
them back into the central province of Nejd, from which
they had carried their bloodthirsty and fanatical wars over
nearly the whole of the peninsula, and, when all fear from
the Wahabi was over, Sultan Sayid extended his conquests
in all directions. He occupied several points on the Persian<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/55.png">55</SPAN>]</span>
Gulf and the opposite coast of Beluchistan, and materially
assisted the Indian Government in putting down the piracy
which had for long closed the Gulf to all trade; and finally,
in 1856, he added the important Arab settlement of
Mombasa and Zanzibar, on the African coast, to his
dominion.</p>
<p>During this long reign Maskat prospered exceedingly.
It was the great trade centre for the Persian Gulf, inasmuch
as it was a safe depôt, where merchants could deposit their
goods without fear of piracy; vessels going to and from
India before the introduction of steam used frequently to
stop at Maskat for water. As a trade centre in those
days it was almost as important as Aden, and with the
Indian Government Sultan Sayid was always on most
friendly terms.</p>
<p>When Sultan Sayid died, the usual dispute took
place between his successors. England promptly stepped
in to settle this dispute, and, with the foresight she so
admirably displays on such occasions, she advocated a
division of Sayid's empire. Zanzibar was given to one
claimant, Oman to the other, and for the future Oman and
Sultan Tourki remained under British protection.</p>
<p>Since the death of Sultan Sayid the power of Oman has
most lamentably gone down, partly owing to the very
success of his attempts to put down piracy; this, followed
by the introduction of steam, has diminished the importance
of Maskat as a safe port for the merchants to deposit their
wares. It is also partly due to the jealousies which prevail
between the descendants of Sayid who rule in Zanzibar and
in Maskat. Palgrave in 1863 describes Maskat as having
40,000 inhabitants; there are probably half that number
now.</p>
<p>The Sultan of Zanzibar has to pay an annual tribute of
40,000 crowns to his relative of Maskat in order to equalise<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/56.png">56</SPAN>]</span>
the inheritance, and this tribute being a constant source of
trouble, of late years he has taken to urging the wild
Bedouin tribes in Oman to revolt against the present, rather
weak-minded sultan who reigns there. He supplies them
with the sinews of war, namely money and ammunition,
and the insurrection which occurred in February 1895 was
chiefly due to this motive power.</p>
<p>One of his sisters married a German, the English conniving
at her escape from Zanzibar in a gunboat. On her
husband's death, her elder brother having in the meantime
also died, she returned to Zanzibar thinking her
next brother, the present sultan, to be of a milder disposition,
but he refused to take any notice of her and her
children.</p>
<p>The present ruler of Maskat, Sultan Feysul, is a grandson
of Sultan Sayid and son of Sultan Tourki by an Abyssinian
mother. Since his accession, in 1889, he has been
vacillating in his policy; he has practically had but little
authority outside the walls of Maskat, and were it not for
the support of the British Government and the proximity of
a gunboat, he would long ago have ceased to rule. When
we first saw him, in 1889, he was but a beardless boy, timid
and shy, and now he has reached man's estate he still
retains the nervous manner of his youth. He lives in
perpetual dread of his elder brother Mahmoud, who, being
the son of a negress, was not considered a suitable person
to inherit the throne. The two brothers, though living in
adjacent houses, never meet without their own escorts to
protect them from each other.</p>
<p>The way in which Feysul obtained possession of the
Sultan's palace on his father's death, to the exclusion of his
brother, is curious.</p>
<p>Feysul said his grief for his father was so great that his
feelings would not admit of his attending the funeral, so he<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/57.png">57</SPAN>]</span>
stayed at home while Mahmoud went, who on his return
found the door locked in his face.</p>
<p>The palace is entered by a formidable-looking door,
decorated with large spiked bosses of brass. This opens
into a small court which contained at the time of our first
visit the most imposing sight of the place, namely the lion
in his cage to the left, into which Feysul was in the habit
of introducing criminals of the deepest dye, to be devoured
by this lordly executioner. Opposite to this cage of death is
another, a low probationary cage, which, when we were
there, contained a prisoner stretched out at full length, for
the cage is too low to admit of a sitting posture. From
this point he could view the horrors of the lion's cage, so
that during his incarceration he might contemplate what
might happen to him if he continued, on liberation, to pursue
his evil ways. Another door leads into a vaulted passage
full of guards, through which we passed and entered into
an inner court with a pool in the centre and a wide cloister
around it supporting a gallery.</p>
<p>Sultan Feysul was then a very young man, not much over
twenty. He was greatly interested in seeing us, for we were
the first English travellers who had visited him since his accession.
We caught sight of him peeping at us over the balcony
as we passed through the courtyard below, and we had to
clamber up a ladder to the gallery, where we found him ready
to welcome us. He seized our hands and shook them warmly,
and then led us with much effusiveness to his <i>khawah</i>, a
long room just overhanging the sea, which is his reception and
throne-room. Here were high, cane-bottomed chairs around
the walls, and at one end a red chair, which is the throne;
just over it were hung two grotesque pictures of our Queen
and the Prince Consort, such as one could buy for a penny
at a fair. They are looked upon as objects of great value
here, and act as befitting symbols of our protectorate.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/58.png">58</SPAN>]</span></p>
<p>The imam fed us with sweets and coffee, asked us innumerable
questions, and seemed full of boyish fun. Certainly
with his turban of blue and red checked cotton (which would
have been a housemaid's duster at home), his faded, greenish
yellow cloak, fastened round his slender frame by a red
girdle, he looked anything but a king. As we were preparing
to depart the young monarch grew apparently very uneasy,
and impatiently shouted something to his attendants, and
when the servant came in, Feysul hurried to him, seized four
little gilt bottles of attar of roses, thrust two of them into
each of our pockets, and with some compliments as to our
Queen having eyes everywhere, and Feysul's certainty that
she would look after him, the audience was at an end.</p>
<p>Sultan Feysul was a complete autocrat as far as his
jurisdiction extended. At his command a criminal could be
executed either in the lion's cage or in a little square by
the sea, and his body cut up and thrown into the waves.
The only check upon him was the British Resident. His
father, Tourki, not long before sewed up a woman in a sack
and drowned her, whereupon a polite message came from
the Residency requesting him not to do such things again.
Hence young Feysul dared not be very cruel—to offend the
English would have been to lose his position.</p>
<p>His half brother, Mahmoud, whose mother was a
Swahili, lives next door to his brother, Sultan Feysul, in the
enjoyment of a pension of 600 dollars a mouth. The uncles,
however, are not so amenable. The eldest of them, according
to Arabian custom, claimed the throne and had collected
an army amongst the Bedouin to assert his claims, and was
then in possession of all the country, with the exception of
Maskat and El Matra, for Feysul had no money, and hence
he could not get his soldiers to fight. But then it had been
intimated to Feysul that in all probability the English
would support his claims if he conducted himself prudently<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/59.png">59</SPAN>]</span>
and wisely. So there was every likelihood that in due
course he would be thoroughly established in the dominions
of his father.</p>
<p>When we visited the town for the second time an even
more serious rebellion was impending, the Bedouin of the
interior, under Sheikh Saleh, having attacked Maskat itself.
The sultan and his brother, who hastily became friends, retired
together to the castle, and the town was given up to plunder.
There were dead bodies lying on the beach, and but for the
kindness of Colonel Hayes Sadler, the British Resident,
there would have been difficulties in the fort as regards
water. They relied principally on H.M.S. <i>Sphinx</i>, which
lay in the harbour to protect British interests, and to maintain
Sultan Feysul in his position.</p>
<p>This state of terror lasted three weeks, when the rebels,
having looted the bazaars and wrecked the town, were
eventually persuaded to retire, free and unpunished, with a
considerable cash payment; probably intending to return for
more when the cooler weather should come, and the date
harvest be over. With the consent of, and at the request
of, the Indian Government, Sultan Feysul has imposed
additional heavy duty on all the produce coming in from
the rebel tribes, that he may have a fund from which to
pay indemnities to foreigners who suffered loss during the
invasion. A good many Banyan merchants, British subjects,
suffered losses, and their claim alone amounted to 120,000
rupees. As a natural result of this disaster and its ignominious
termination, Sultan Feysul's authority at the present
moment is absolutely <i>nil</i> outside the walls of Maskat and
El Matra, and he is still in a state of declared war with all
the Bedouin chiefs in the mountains behind Maskat.</p>
<p>A few British subjects were scared, but not killed, and
as all was over in a few weeks no one thought much more
about it except those more immediately interested, and few<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/60.png">60</SPAN>]</span>
paused to think what an important part Maskat has played
in the opening up of the Persian Gulf and the suppression
of piracy, and what an important part it may yet play should
the lordship of the Persian Gulf ever become a <i>casus belli</i>.</p>
<p>Although Maskat has been under Indian influence for
most of this century, it has latterly gone down much in the
world; the trade of the place has well-nigh departed, and
with a weak sultan at the head of affairs, confidence will be
long in returning. Unquestionably our own Political Agent
may be said to be the ruler in Maskat, and his authority is
generally backed up by the presence of a gunboat. There
is also an American Consul there, who chiefly occupies
himself in trade and steamer agencies, and in 1895 the
French also sent a Consul to inquire into the question of
the slave trade, which is undoubtedly the burning question
in Arabia.</p>
<p>Whilst England has been doing all she can to put slavery
down, it is complained that much is carried on under cover
of the French flag, obtained by Arab dhows under false
pretexts from the French Consul resident in Zanzibar.
Sultan Feysul remonstrated with France on this point, and
the appointment of a Consul is the result.</p>
<p>The great reason for our unpopularity in Arabia is due
without doubt to our suppression of this trade. Slavery is
inherent in the Arab; he does as little work as he can himself,
and if he is to have no slaves nothing will be done, and
he must die. In other parts of South Arabia—Yemen, the
Hadhramout, the Mahra country, and Dhofar—slavery is
universal; and there is no doubt about it the slaves are
treated very well and live happy lives; but here in Oman,
under the very eye of India, slavery must be checked. Our
gunboat, the <i>Sphinx</i>, goes the round of the coast to prevent
this traffic in human flesh, and frequently slaves swim
out to the British steamer and obtain their liberty. This<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/61.png">61</SPAN>]</span>
naturally makes us very unpopular in Sur, where the
Jenefa tribe have their head-quarters, the most inveterate
slave-traders of Southern Arabia. The natural result is that
whenever they get a chance the Jenefa tribe loot any
foreign vessel wrecked on their shores and murder the crew.
In the summer of 1894, however, a boat was wrecked near
Ghubet-el-Hashish, containing some creoles from the
Seychelle Islands, after being driven for forty-five days out
of their course by south-east monsoons, during which time
three or four of them had died. The survivors were much
exhausted, but the Bedouin treated them kindly, for a
wonder, and brought them safely to Maskat. For doing this
they were handsomely rewarded by the Indian Government,
though they had kept possession of the boat and its contents;
nevertheless, they had saved the lives of the crew, and this,
being a step in the right direction, was thought worthy of
reward.</p>
<p>The jealousies, however, of other tribes were so great
that the rescuers could not return to their own country by
the land route, but had to be sent to Sur by sea.</p>
<p>Feysul has had copper coins of his own struck, of the
value of a quarter anna. On the obverse is a picture of
Maskat and its forts, around which in English runs the
legend, 'Sultan Feysul-bin-Tourki Sultan and Imam of
Maskat and Oman,' and on the reverse is the Arab equivalent.
He has also introduced an ice-factory, which, however,
is now closed, and he wished to have his own stamps,
principally with a view to making money out of them; but
our agent represented to him that it was beneath the dignity
of so great a sultan to make money in so mean a way, and
the stamps have never appeared. Sultan Feysul had done
much in the last few years, since our first visit, to modernise
his palace. British influence has abolished many horrors
and cruelties, and the lion having died has not been replaced.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/62.png">62</SPAN>]</span></p>
<p>For the Indian Government the question of Maskat is
by no means pleasant, for, should any other Power choose to
interfere and establish an influence there, it would materially
affect the influence which we have established in the Persian
Gulf.</p>
<div class="footnotes">
<div class="footnote"><p><SPAN name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></SPAN><SPAN href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></SPAN> Pinkerton, vol. viii.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></SPAN>[<SPAN href="./images/63.png">63</SPAN>]</span></p>
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