<p><SPAN name="c1-6" id="c1-6"></SPAN> </p>
<p> </p>
<h3>CHAPTER VI.</h3>
<h4>JERUSALEM.<br/> </h4>
<p>But there was no quarrel between George Bertram uncle and George
Bertram nephew: though in such conversations as they had about
business they were not over civil to each other, still they went on
together as good friends, at any rate as they ever had been. Indeed,
after the last scene which has been reported, the old man became more
courteous to his nephew, and before the three months were over was
almost cordial.</p>
<p>There was that about George the younger which made the old uncle
respect him, despite himself. The London merchant had a thorough
contempt for his brother, the soldier of fortune: he had acted as he
had done on behalf of that brother's son almost more with the view of
showing his contempt, and getting thereby an opportunity for
expressing it, than with any fixed idea of doing a kindness. He had
counted also on despising the son as he had despised the father; but
here he found himself foiled. George had taken all that he had given,
as any youth would take what an uncle gave; but he had never asked
for more: he had done as well as it was possible for him to do in
that line of education which had been tendered to him; and now,
though he would not become an attorney or a merchant, was prepared to
earn his own bread, and professed that he was able to support himself
without further assistance from any one.</p>
<p>Before the three months were over, his uncle had more than once asked
him to prolong his visit; but George had made up his mind to leave
Hadley. His purpose was to spend three or four months in going out to
his father, and then to settle in London. In the meantime, he
employed himself with studying the law of nations, and amused his
leisure hours with Coke and Blackstone.</p>
<p>"You'll never find your father," said Mr. Bertram.</p>
<p>"At any rate, I'll try; and if I miss him, I shall see something of
the world."</p>
<p>"You'll see more in London in three months than you will there in
twelve; and, moreover, you would not lose your time."</p>
<p>But George was inexorable, and before the three months were over he
had started on his trip.</p>
<p>"I beg your pardon, Mr. George," said Mr. Pritchett to him the day
before he went (his uncle had requested him to call on Pritchett in
the city)—"I beg your pardon, Mr. George, but if I may be allowed to
speak a word or so, I do hope you'll write a line now and then to the
old gentleman while you are away."</p>
<p>Now George had never written a line to his uncle in his life; all his
communications as to his journeys and proposed arrivals had, by his
uncle's special direction, been made to the housekeeper, and he had
no present intention of commencing a correspondence.</p>
<p>"Write to him, Mr. Pritchett! No, I don't suppose I shall. I take it,
my uncle does not much care for such letters as I should write."</p>
<p>"Ah! but he would, Mr. George. You shouldn't be too quick to take
persons by their appearances. It's half a million of money, you know,
Mr. George; half—a—million—of—money!" And Mr. Pritchett put great
stress on the numeration of his patron's presumed wealth.</p>
<p>"Half a million, is it? Well, that's a great deal, no doubt; and I
fully see the force of your excellent argument. But I fear there is
nothing to be done in that line: I'm not born to be the heir to half
a million of money; you might see that in my face."</p>
<p>Mr. Pritchett stared at him very hard. "Well, I can't say that I do,
Mr. George; but take my word for it, the old gentleman is very fond
of you."</p>
<p>"Very fond! That's a little too strong, isn't it?"</p>
<p>"That is, if he's very fond of anything. Now, he said to me
yesterday, 'Pritchett,' says he, 'that boy's going to Bagdad.' 'What!
Mr. George?' says I. 'Yes,' says he; 'and to Hong Kong too, I
suppose, before he comes back: he's going after his father;' and then
he gave one of those bitter looks, you know. 'That's a pity,' says I,
for you know one must humour him. 'He is a fool,' says your uncle,
'and always will be.'"</p>
<p>"I'm sure, Mr. Pritchett, I'm very much obliged for the trouble you
are at in telling me."</p>
<p>"Oh! I think nothing of the trouble. 'And he knows no more about
money,' says your uncle, 'than an ostrich. He can't go to Bagdad out
of his allowance.' 'Of course he can't,' said I. 'You had better put
three hundred pounds to his credit,' said the old gentleman; and so,
Mr. George, I have."</p>
<p>"I could have done very well without it, Mr. Pritchett."</p>
<p>"Perhaps so; but three hundred pounds never hurt anybody—never, Mr.
George; and I can tell you this: if you play your cards well, you may
be the old gentleman's heir, in spite of all he says to the
contrary."</p>
<p>"At any rate, Mr. Pritchett, I'm very much obliged to you:" and so
they parted.</p>
<p>"He'll throw that three hundred pounds in my teeth the next time I
see him," said George to himself.</p>
<p>Good as Mr. Pritchett's advice undoubtedly was, Bertram did not take
it; and his uncle received no line from him during the whole period
of his absence. Our hero's search after his father was not quite of
so intricate a nature as was supposed by his uncle, nor so difficult
as that made by Japhet under similar circumstances. His route was to
be by Paris, Marseilles, Malta, Alexandria, Jaffa, Jerusalem, and
Damascus, and he had written to Sir Lionel, requesting him to write
to either or all of those addresses. Neither in France, nor Malta,
nor Egypt did he receive any letters; but in the little town of
Jaffa, where he first put his foot on Asiatic soil, a despatch from
his father was awaiting him. Sir Lionel was about to leave Persia,
and was proceeding to Constantinople on public service; but he would
go out of his course to meet his son at Jerusalem.</p>
<p>The tone of Sir Lionel's letter was very unlike that of Mr. Bertram's
conversation. He heartily congratulated his son on the splendid
success of his degree; predicted for him a future career both
brilliant and rich; declared that it was the dearest wish of his
heart to embrace his son, and spoke of their spending a few weeks
together at Jerusalem almost with rapture.</p>
<p>This letter very much delighted George. He had a natural anxiety to
think well of his father, and had not altogether believed the evil
that had been rather hinted than spoken of him by Mr. Bertram. The
colonel had certainly not hitherto paid him very much parental
attention, and had generally omitted to answer the few letters which
George had written to him. But a son is not ill inclined to accept
acts of new grace from a father; and there was something so
delightful in the tone and manner of Sir Lionel's letter, it was so
friendly as well as affectionate, so perfectly devoid of the dull,
monotonous, lecture-giving asperity with which ordinary fathers too
often season their ordinary epistles, that he was in raptures with
his newly-found correspondent.</p>
<p>"I would not miss seeing you for worlds," wrote Sir Lionel; "and
although I have been ordered to Constantinople with all the
<i>immediate haste</i> which your civil-service grandees always use in
addressing us military slaves, it shall go hard with me but I will
steal a fortnight from them in order to pass it with you at
Jerusalem. I suppose I shall scarce know you, or you me; but when you
see an old gentleman in a military frock, with a bald head, a hook
nose, and a rather short allowance of teeth, you may then be sure
that you look upon your father. However, I will be at
<span class="nowrap">Z——'s</span>
Hotel—I believe they honour the caravansary with that name—as soon
as possible after the 14th."</p>
<p>His uncle had at any rate been quite wrong in predicting that his
father would keep out of his way. So far was this from being the
case, that Sir Lionel was going to put himself to considerable
inconvenience to meet him. It might be, and no doubt was the case,
that Mr. Bertram the merchant had put together a great deal more
money than Colonel Bertram the soldier; but the putting together of
money was no virtue in George's eyes; and if Sir Lionel had not
remitted a portion of his pay as regularly as he perhaps should have
done, that should not now be counted as a vice. It may perhaps be
surmised that had George Bertram suffered much in consequence of his
father's negligence in remitting, he might have been disposed to look
at the matter in a different light.</p>
<p>He had brought but one servant with him, a dragoman whom he had
picked up at Malta, and with him he started on his ride from the city
of oranges. Oranges grow plentifully enough in Spain, in Malta, in
Egypt, in Jamaica, and other places, but within five miles of Jaffa
nothing else is grown—if we except the hedges of prickly pear which
divide the gardens. Orange garden succeeds to orange garden till one
finds oneself on the broad open desert that leads away to Jerusalem.</p>
<p>There is something enticing to an Englishman in the idea of riding
off through the desert with a pistol girt about his waist, a
portmanteau strapped on one horse before him, and an only attendant
seated on another behind him. There is a <i>soupçon</i>
of danger in the
journey just sufficient to give it excitement; and then it is so
un-English, oriental, and inconvenient; so opposed to the accustomed
haste and comfort of a railway; so out of his hitherto beaten way of
life, that he is delighted to get into the saddle. But it may be a
question whether he is not generally more delighted to get out of it;
particularly if that saddle be a Turkish one.</p>
<p>George had heard of Arab horses, and the clouds of dust which rise
from their winged feet. When first he got beyond the hedges of the
orange gardens, he expected to gallop forth till he found himself
beneath the walls of Jerusalem. But he had before him many an hour of
tedious labour ere those walls were seen. His pace was about four
miles an hour. During the early day he strove frequently to mend it;
but as the sun became hot in the heavens, his efforts after speed
were gradually reduced, and long before evening he had begun to think
that Jerusalem was a myth, his dragoman an impostor, and his Arab
steed the sorriest of jades.</p>
<p>"It is the longest journey I ever took in my life," said George.</p>
<p>"Longest; yes. A top of two mountain more, and two go-down, and then
there; yes," said the dragoman, among whose various accomplishments
that of speaking English could hardly be reckoned as the most
prominent.</p>
<p>At last the two mountains more and the two go-downs were performed,
and George was informed that the wall he saw rising sharp from the
rocky ground was Jerusalem. There is something very peculiar in the
first appearance of a walled city that has no suburbs or extramural
adjuncts. It is like that of a fortress of cards built craftily on a
table. With us in England it is always difficult to say where the
country ends and where the town begins; and even with the walled
towns of the Continent, one rarely comes upon them so as to see the
sharp angles of a gray stone wall shining in the sun, as they do in
the old pictures of the cities in "Pilgrim's Progress."</p>
<p>But so it is with Jerusalem. One rides up to the gate feeling that
one is still in the desert; and yet a moment more, with the
permission of those very dirty-looking Turkish soldiers at the gate,
will place one in the city. One rides up to the gate, and as every
one now has a matured opinion as to the taking of casemated batteries
and the inefficiency of granite bastions, one's first idea is how
delightfully easy it would be to take Jerusalem. It is at any rate
easy enough to enter it, for the dirty Turkish soldiers do not even
look at you, and you soon become pleasantly aware that you are beyond
the region of passports.</p>
<p>George Bertram had promised himself that the moment in which he first
saw Jerusalem should be one of intense mental interest; and when,
riding away from the orange gardens at Jaffa, he had endeavoured to
urge his Arab steed into that enduring gallop which was to carry him
up to the city of the sepulchre, his heart was ready to melt into
ecstatic pathos as soon as that gallop should have been achieved. But
the time for ecstatic pathos had altogether passed away before he
rode in at that portal. He was then swearing vehemently at his
floundering jade, and giving up to all the fiends of Tartarus the
accursed saddle which had been specially contrived with the view of
lacerating the nether Christian man.</p>
<p>"Where on earth is this <span class="nowrap">d——</span>
hotel?" said he, when he and his
dragoman and portmanteau had been floundering for about five minutes
down a steep, narrow, ill-paved lane, with a half-formed gully in the
middle, very slippery with orange-peel and old vegetables, and
crowded with the turbans of all the Eastern races. "Do you call this
a street?" After all his sentiment, all his emotions, all his pious
resolves, it was thus that our hero entered Jerusalem! But what piety
can withstand the wear and tear of twelve hours in a Turkish saddle?</p>
<p>"Is this a street?" said he. It was the main street in Jerusalem. The
first, or among the first in grandeur of those sacred ways which he
had intended hardly to venture to pass with shoes on his feet. His
horse turning a corner as he followed the dragoman again slipped and
almost fell. Whereupon Bertram again cursed. But then he was not only
tired and sore, but very hungry also. Our finer emotions should
always be encouraged with a stomach moderately full.</p>
<p>At last they stopped at a door in a wall, which the dragoman
pronounced to be the entrance of
<span class="nowrap">Z——'s</span> hotel. In fact they had not
yet been full ten minutes within the town; but the streets certainly
were not well paved. In five minutes more, George was in his room,
strewing sofas and chairs with the contents of his portmanteau, and
inquiring with much energy what was the hour fixed for the table
d'hôte. He found, with much inward satisfaction, that he had just
twenty minutes to prepare himself. At Jerusalem, as elsewhere, these
after all are the traveller's first main questions. When is the table
d'hôte? Where is the cathedral? At what hour does the train start
to-morrow morning? It will be some years yet, but not very many,
before the latter question is asked at Jerusalem.</p>
<p>Bertram had arrived about a fortnight before Easter, and the town was
already full of pilgrims, congregated for that ceremony, and of
English and Americans who had come to look at the pilgrims.</p>
<p>The inn was nearly full, and George, when he entered the public room,
heard such a Babel of English voices, and such a clatter of English
spoons that he might have fancied himself at the top of the <i>Righi</i>
or in a Rhine steamboat. But the subjects under discussion all
savoured of the Holy Land.</p>
<p>"Mrs. Rose, we are going to have a picnic on Monday in the Valley of
Jehoshaphat; will you and your young ladies join us? We shall send
the hampers to the tomb of Zachariah."</p>
<p>"Thank you, Miss Todd; we should have been so happy; but we have only
three days to do Bethlehem, the Dead Sea, and Jericho. We must be off
to-morrow."</p>
<p>"Mamma, I lost my parasol somewhere coming down the Mount of Offence.
Those nasty Arab children must have stolen it."</p>
<p>"They say the people in Siloam are the greatest thieves in Syria; and
nobody dares to meddle with them."</p>
<p>"But I saw it in your hand, my dear, at the Well of Enrogel."</p>
<p>"What, no potatoes! there were potatoes yesterday. Waiter, waiter;
who ever heard of setting people down to dinner without potatoes?"</p>
<p>"Well, I didn't know what to say to it. If that is the tomb of
Nicodemus, that seems to settle the question. May I trouble you for
the salt?"</p>
<p>"Mr. Pott, I won't have anything more to say to you; you have no
faith. I believe it all."</p>
<p>"What, all? from Calvary upstairs in the gallery down to the dark
corner where the cock crew?"</p>
<p>"Yes, all, Mr. Pott. Why should not a cock crow there as well as
anywhere else? It is so beautiful to believe."</p>
<p>George Bertram found himself seated next to a lady-like well-dressed
Englishwoman of the middle age, whom he heard called Miss Baker; and
next to her again sat—an angel! whom Miss Baker called Caroline, and
whom an odious man sitting on the other side of her called Miss
Waddington.</p>
<p>All my readers will probably at different times have made part of a
table-d'hôte assemblage; and most of them, especially those who have
travelled with small parties, will know how essential it is to one's
comfort to get near to pleasant neighbours. The young man's idea of a
pleasant neighbour is of course a pretty girl. What the young ladies'
idea may be I don't pretend to say. But it certainly does seem to be
happily arranged by Providence that the musty fusty people, and the
nicy spicy people, and the witty pretty people do severally assemble
and get together as they ought to do.</p>
<p>Bertram's next-door neighbour was certainly of the nicy spicy order;
but this did not satisfy him. He would have been very well pleased to
talk to Miss Baker had it not been for the close contiguity of Miss
Waddington; and even her once-removed vicinity would not have made
him unhappy had not that odious man on her left had so much to say
about the village of Emmaus and the Valley of Ajalon.</p>
<p>Now, be it known to all men that Caroline Waddington is our donna
primissima—the personage of most importance in these pages. It is
for her that you are to weep, with her that you are to sympathize,
and at her that you are to wonder. I would that I could find it
compatible with my duty to introduce her to this circle without any
minute details of her bodily and mental charms; but I have already
been idle in the case of Adela Gauntlet, and I feel that a donna
primissima has claims to description which I cannot get over. Only
not exactly now; in a few chapters hence we shall have Miss
Waddington actively engaged upon the scene, and then she shall be
described.</p>
<p>It must suffice now to say that she was an orphan; that since her
father's death she had lived with her aunt, Miss Baker, chiefly at
Littlebath; that Miss Baker had, at her niece's instance, been to
Egypt, up the Nile, across the short desert—(short!) having
travelled from Cairo to Jerusalem,—and that now, thoroughly sick of
the oriental world, she was anxious only to get back to Littlebath;
while Caroline, more enthusiastic, and much younger, urged her to go
on to Damascus and Lebanon, to Beyrout and Smyrna, and thence home,
merely visiting Constantinople and Athens on the way.</p>
<p>Had Bertram heard the terms in which Miss Waddington spoke of the
youth who was so great about Ajalon when she and her aunt were in
their own room, and also the words in which that aunt spoke of him,
perhaps he might have been less provoked.</p>
<p>"Aunt, that Mr. M'Gabbery is an ass. I am sure he has ears if one
could only see them. I am so tired of him. Don't you think we could
get on to Damascus to-morrow?"</p>
<p>"If we did I have no doubt he'd come too." Mr. M'Gabbery had been one
of the party who crossed the desert with them from Cairo.</p>
<p>"Impossible, aunt. The Hunters are ready to start to-morrow, or, if
not, the day after, and I know they would not have him."</p>
<p>"But, my dear, I really am not equal to Damascus. A few more days on
a <span class="nowrap">camel—"</span></p>
<p>"But, aunt, you'll have a horse."</p>
<p>"That's worse, I'm sure. And, moreover, I've found an old friend, and
one that you will like very much."</p>
<p>"What, that exceedingly ugly young man that sat next to you?"</p>
<p>"Yes. That exceedingly ugly young man I remember as the prettiest
baby in the world—not that I think he is ugly. He is, however, no
other than the nephew of Mr. Bertram."</p>
<p>"What, papa's Mr. Bertram?"</p>
<p>"Yes; your father's Mr. Bertram. Therefore, if old Mr. Bertram should
die, and this young man should be his heir, he would have the charge
of all your money. You'd better be gracious to him."</p>
<p>"How odd! But what is he like?"</p>
<p>"He is one of the cleverest young men of the day. I had heard that he
had distinguished himself very much at Oxford; and he certainly is a
most agreeable companion." And so it was arranged between them that
they would not start to Damascus as yet, in spite of any evil that
Mr. M'Gabbery might inflict on them.</p>
<p>On the next morning at breakfast, Bertram managed to separate the
aunt from the niece by sitting between them. It was long, however,
before Mr. M'Gabbery gave up the battle. When he found that an
interloper was interfering with his peculiar property, he began to
tax his conversational powers to the utmost. He was greater than ever
about Ajalon, and propounded some very startling theories with
reference to Emmaus. He recalled over and over again the interesting
bits of their past journey; how tired they had been at Gaza, where he
had worked for the ladies like a slave—how terribly Miss Baker had
been frightened in the neighbourhood of Arimathea, where he, Mr.
M'Gabbery, had specially looked to his pistols with the view of
waging war on three or four supposed Bedouins who were seen to be
hovering on the hill-sides. But all would not do. Miss Waddington was
almost tired of Gaza and Arimathea, and Miss Baker seemed to have a
decided preference for London news. So at last Mr. M'Gabbery became
silent and grand, and betook himself to his associations and a map of
Palestine in a corner.</p>
<p>Bertram, when fortified with a night's rest and a good breakfast, was
able to recover his high-toned feeling, and, thus armed, proceeded
alone to make his first visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It
was a Sunday, the last Sunday in Lent; and he determined to hear mass
in the Greek Church, and ascertain for himself how much devotion an
English Protestant could experience in the midst of this foreign
worship. But one mass was over and another not begun when he reached
the building, and he had thus time to follow his dragoman to the
various wonders of that very wonderful building.</p>
<p>It is now generally known in England of what the church of the holy
places consists; but no one who has not seen it, and none, indeed,
who have not seen it at Easter-time, can fully realize all the
absurdity which it contains and all the devotion which it occasions.
Bertram was first carried to the five different churches which have
crowded themselves together under the same roof. The Greeks have by
far the best of it. Their shrine is gaudy and glittering, and their
temple is large and in some degree imposing. The Latins, whom we call
Roman Catholics, are much less handsomely lodged, and their tinsel is
by far more dingy. The Greeks, too, possess the hole in which
stood—so they say—the cross of Our Saviour; while the Latins are
obliged to put up with the sites on which the two thieves were
crucified. Then the church of the Armenians, for which you have to
descend almost into the bowels of the earth, is still less grand in
its pretensions, is more sombre, more dark, more dirty; but it is as
the nave of St. Peter's when compared to the poor wooden-cased altar
of the Abyssinians, or the dark unfurnished gloomy cave in which the
Syrian Christians worship, so dark that the eye cannot at first
discover its only ornament—a small ill-made figure of the crucified
Redeemer.</p>
<p>We who are accustomed to Roman Catholic gorgeousness in Italy and
France can hardly at first understand why the Pope here should play
so decidedly a second fiddle. But as he is held to be God's
viceregent among the people of south-western Europe, so is the
Russian emperor among the Christians of the East. He, the Russian, is
still by far the greatest pope in Jerusalem, and is treated with a
much greater respect, a much truer belief, than is his brother of
Rome, even among Romans.</p>
<p>Five or six times Bertram had attempted to get into the Tabernacle of
the Holy Sepulchre; but so great had been the rush of pilgrims, that
he had hitherto failed. At last his dragoman espied a lull, and went
again to the battle. To get into the little outside chapel, which
forms, as it were, a vestibule to the cell of the sepulchre, and from
which on Easter Saturday issue the miraculous flames, was a thing to
be achieved by moderate patience. His close contiguity to Candiotes
and Copts, to Armenians and Abyssinians was not agreeable to our
hero, for the contiguity was very close, and Christians of these
nations are not very cleanly. But this was nothing to the task of
entering the sanctum sanctorum. To this there is but one aperture,
and that is but four feet high; men entering it go in head foremost,
and those retreating come out in the other direction; and as it is
impossible that two should pass, and as two or three are always
trying to come out, and ten or twelve equally anxious to get in, the
struggle to an Englishman is disagreeably warm, though to an Oriental
it is probably matter of interesting excitement.</p>
<p>But for his dragoman, Bertram would never have succeeded. He,
however, so pulled and hauled these anxious devotees, so thrust in
those who endeavoured to come out, and clawed back those who strove
to get in, that the passage became for a moment clear, and our hero,
having bent low his head, found himself standing with his hand on the
marble slab of the tomb.</p>
<p>Those who were there around him seemed to be the outcasts of the
world, exactly those whom he would have objected to meet, unarmed, on
the roads of Greece or among the hills of Armenia; cut-throat-looking
wretches, with close-shaven heads, dirty beards, and angry eyes; men
clothed in skins, or huge skin-like-looking cloaks, filthy, foul,
alive with vermin, reeking with garlic,—abominable to an Englishman.
There was about them a certain dignity of demeanour, a natural
aptitude to carry themselves with ease, and even a not impure taste
for colour among their dirt. But these Christians of the Russian
Church hardly appeared to him to be brothers of his own creed.</p>
<p>But he did put his hand on the slab of the tomb; and as he did so,
two young Greeks, brothers by blood—Greeks by their creed, though of
what actual nation Bertram was quite unable say—pressed their lips
vehemently to the marble. They were dirty, shorn about the head,
dangerous looking, and skin-clothed, as we have described; men very
low in the scale of humanity when compared with their fellow-pilgrim;
but, nevertheless, they were to him at that moment objects of envy.
They believed: so much at any rate was clear to him. By whatever code
of morals they might be able to govern their lives, whether by any,
or as, alas! might be too likely, by none, at least they possessed a
faith. Christ to them was an actual living truth, though they knew
how to worship him no better than by thus kissing a stone, which had
in fact no closer reference to the Saviour than any other stone they
might have kissed in their own country. They believed; and as they
reverently pressed their foreheads, lips, and hands to the top and
sides and edges of the sepulchre, their faith became ecstatic. It was
thus that Bertram would fain have entered that little chapel, thus
that he would have felt, thus that he would have acted had he been
able. So had he thought to feel—in such an agony of faith had he
been minded there to kneel. But he did not kneel at all. He remarked
to himself that the place was inordinately close, that his contiguity
to his religious neighbours was disagreeable; and then, stooping low
his head, not in reverence, but with a view to backing himself out
from the small enclosure, with some delay and much precaution, and,
to speak truth, with various expressions of anger against those who
with their heads continued to push him the way he did not wish to go,
he retreated from the chapel. Nor while he was at Jerusalem did he
feel sufficient interest in the matter again to enter it. He had done
that deed, he had killed that lion, and, ticking it off from his list
of celebrities as one celebrity disposed of, he thought but little
more about it. Such, we believe, are the visits of most English
Christians to the so-called Holy Sepulchre.</p>
<p>And then he killed the other lions there: Calvary up in the gallery;
the garden, so called, in which the risen Saviour addressed the women
running from the sepulchre; the place where Peter's cock crew; the
tomb of Nicodemus—all within the same church, all under the one
roof—all at least under what should be a roof, only now it has
fallen into ruin, so that these sacred places are open to the rain of
heaven, and Greeks and Latins having quarrelled about the repairs,
the Turks, now lords of the Holy Sepulchre, have taken the matter
into their own hands, and declared that no repairs shall be done by
any of them.</p>
<p>And then he attended the Greek mass—at least, he partly believed
that he did so, somewhat doubting, for the mass was not said as are
those of the Romans, out at an open altar before the people, but in a
holy of holies; very holy, it may be imagined, from the manner in
which the worshippers rubbed their foreheads against certain
gratings, through which a tantalizing glimpse might be had of the
fine things that were going on within. Had they but known it, it
might all have been seen, holy of holies, head-wagging priest, idle
yawning assistant, with legs stretched out, half asleep, mumblement,
jumblement and all, from a little back window in a passage opening
from that Calvary gallery upstairs. From thence at least did these
profane eyes look down and see all the mumblement and jumblement,
which after all was little enough; but saw especially the idle
clerical apprentice who, had that screen been down, and had he been
called on to do his altar work before the public eye, would not have
been so nearly asleep, as may perhaps be said of other clerical
performers nearer home.</p>
<p>But Bertram's attention was mainly occupied with watching the
devotions of a single woman. She was a female of one of those strange
nations, decently clad, about thirty years of age, pleasant to the
eye were she not so dirty, and had she not that wild look, half way
between the sallow sublime and the dangerously murderous, which seems
common to oriental Christians, whether men or women. Heaven might
know of what sins she came there to leave the burden: heaven did
know, doubtless; but from the length of her manœuvres in quitting
herself of their weight, one would say that they were heavy; and yet
she went through her task with composed dignity, with an alacrity
that was almost joyous, and certainly with no intentional
self-abasement.</p>
<p>Entering the church with a quick step, she took up a position as
though she had selected a special stone on which to stand. There,
with head erect, but bowing between each ceremony, she crossed
herself three times; then sinking on her knees, thrice she pressed
her forehead to the floor; then rising again, again she crossed
herself. Having so done somewhat to the right of the church, but near
the altar-screen, she did the same on the corresponding stone towards
the left, and then again the same on a stone behind the others, but
in the centre. After this she retreated further back, and did three
more such worshippings, always choosing her stone with an eye to
architectural regularity; then again, getting to the backward, she
did three more, thus completing her appointed task, having crossed
herself thirty-six times, and pressed her head with twenty-seven
pressures upon the floor. And so, having finished, she quickly
withdrew. Did any slightest prayer, any idea of praying, any thought
of a God giving grace and pardon if only asked to give, once enter
that bowing bosom?</p>
<p>"Why do those Turks sit there?" said Bertram, as he left the
building. Why, indeed? It was strange to see five or six stately
Turks, strict children of the Prophet doubtless, sitting there within
the door of this temple dedicated to the Nazarene God, sitting there
and looking as though they of all men had the most right so to sit,
and were most at home in so sitting; nay, they had a divan there,
were drinking coffee there out of little double cups, as is the
manner of these people; were not smoking, certainly, as is their
manner also in all other places.</p>
<p>"Dem guard de keys," said the dragoman.</p>
<p>"Guard the keys!"</p>
<p>"Yes, yes; open de lock, and not let de Christian fight."</p>
<p>So it is. In such manner is proper, fitting, peaceable conduct
maintained within the thrice Christian walls of the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre.</p>
<p>On his return to the hotel, Bertram accepted an invitation to join
Miss Todd's picnic in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and then towards
evening strolled up alone on to the Mount of Olives.</p>
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